The Portuguese Centre of Photography, An Escape Through Images at the Heart of a Prison
- Olivier
- Mar 22
- 8 min read
Updated: 12 hours ago
The Centro Português de Fotografia, or Portuguese Centre of Photography, is a cultural institution dedicated to the preservation, study, and promotion of photography. Located in a former prison of Porto, it is a haven for photography enthusiasts and a vital resource for understanding the evolution of photographic art.
© O. Robert
An escape through images at the heart of one of the oldest penitentiary buildings in the country. Visiting the permanent or temporary exhibitions at the Centro Português de Fotografia also means discovering a fabulous building with a difficult past.
The primary mission of the CPF is to preserve Portugal's photographic heritage. It aims to collect, conserve, and exhibit photographs that reflect the country's cultural and historical identity. And for sure, they do it very well. Perhaps the unique setting of the place has something to do with it...
The ground floor features thick stone walls and heavy metal grilles separating the cells (now exhibition rooms), along with a splendid central patio that serves as a lightwell. The exhibitions are superb and beautifully presented. After climbing a majestic staircase, separated from the patio by stone arches, you'll find, on the first floor, some magnificent reception rooms with sober decor that hints at a luxurious past.
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The third floor houses a beautiful collection of unique photographic equipment and binoculars. The architecture and apparent luxury of the upper floors contrast sharply with the starkness of the ground-floor rooms. One might wonder why a prison from this era possesses such notable qualities.
Hereunder are some explanations that help better understand the status of this building and its evolution over time.
Origins and Organization
The Centro Português de Fotografia (CPF) was established in 1997, housed in a former prison building known as the Cadeia da Relação. This historic structure, dating back to the 18th century, adds a layer of intrigue and character to the center (See below for the reasons why I find this building suitable for photographic exhibitions).
The CPF has a rich and solemn history. Construction began in 1767, designed by Lisbon architect Eugénio dos Santos Carvalho, on the same site where earlier facilities of Relação and Casa do Porto stood at the start of the 17th century.
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This grand structure, nestled among rows of houses near the St. Bento da Vitória Convent and facing Porta do Olival, served as both a Prison and Court of Appeal. Its unique trapezoidal plan was divided almost equally between the Court and Prison, with the Court areas featuring meticulous finishing details still visible today.
The Prison section was built with a strong focus on security, evident in its thick granite walls, double grids, and iron-plated doors. The detention areas were organized as follows:
Ground Floor: Collective cells or dungeons (enxovias) named after saints, which were dark, damp, and cold, accessible only through trapdoors from above.
Second Floor: More habitable halls (salões) and a women's room.
Third Floor: Individual cells for "people with status" and infirmaries.
Prisoners were distributed based on the severity of their crimes, social status, and ability to pay. Despite regulations, overcrowding was a persistent issue. The prison also included a guardhouse, jailer's quarters, an oratory for death-row inmates, and various other specialized rooms.
In the 20th century, new spaces were added, including workshops and a family parlour. The main inner yard, initially designed for light and ventilation, became a vital part of prison life in 1862. This period also saw the creation of a separate area for minors and improved conditions for women, partly due to the arrest of notable figures like Ana Plácido.
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However, the building's age and lack of funds for major repairs led to its gradual decline. After the Court moved out in 1937, adaptations were made under tight budgets, always with the future transfer to a new facility in mind. In April 1974, shortly after the Revolution, the prison was closed, and its inmates were moved to the Custoias Penal Institution.
The "Cadeia da Relação" stood as a unique example of Ancien Régime judicial architecture, housing infamous criminals and political prisoners for nearly two centuries. After its closure, the building underwent several restoration projects, with significant interventions in 1989 and 2000, led by architects Humberto Vieira and Eduardo Souto Moura, to adapt it for its new role as the Portuguese Center for Photography.
Today, the building serves as a testament to Portugal's judicial history, embodying the stern and imposing atmosphere of its past while embracing a new cultural purpose.
Exhibitions and Collections
Exhibitions
The CPF boasts an extensive permanent collection that includes works by renowned Portuguese photographers as well as international artists. The collection spans various genres, from documentary and portrait photography to experimental and conceptual works.
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Throughout the year, the CPF also hosts a variety of temporary exhibitions that showcase both contemporary and historical photography. These exhibitions often explore themes relevant to Portuguese society and the broader photographic community.
Camera Collection
The CPF also houses an impressive collection of historic cameras, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the evolution of photographic technology. From Kodak, Zeiss Ikon, Ernemann, Leica, Polaroid, Hasselblad, to modern brands, the collection includes a wide array of over 600 cameras spanning various decades. Visitors can expect to see everything from early daguerreotypes and folding cameras to modern reflex models and disposable cameras.
© O. Robert
© O. Robert
One of the most intriguing aspects of the collection is the display of espionage cameras. These cameras, often hidden in everyday objects like Pepsi cans or Marlboro packets, offer a fascinating look into the world of covert photography.
Some of the cameras on display are over a century old, providing a tangible link to the history of photography and its technological advancements.
Educational Initiatives
The CPF is committed to educating the public about photography. It offers workshops, seminars, and courses that cater to both beginners and advanced photographers. These programs cover technical skills, artistic expression, and the history of photography.
The center also engages in research projects and publishes books and catalogs that contribute to the scholarly discourse on photography. These publications are invaluable resources for researchers, students, and enthusiasts alike.
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A Former Prison Adapted to Photography
As mentioned above, the CPF is located in a former prison building, called the Cadeia da Relação. This specificity adds a profound layer of depth to the experience of visiting the exhibitions. The stark, imposing architecture of the prison serves as a poignant reminder of the past, creating a unique atmosphere that enhances the viewing of both temporary and permanent photographic collections.
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Here are some aspects that particularly struck me and why I find them suitable for the world of photography and exhibitions:
An Interplay of Space and Art
The prison's walls, steeped in history, provide a tangible connection to the past. This setting encourages viewers to reflect on the passage of time and the enduring nature of human experience, themes that are often explored in photography.
The contrast between the harsh, confining environment of the former prison and the liberating, expressive nature of photography creates a powerful juxtaposition. This contrast invites contemplation on the dualities of freedom and constraint, light and shadow, which are central to the art of photography.
The atmosphere of the former prison evoke a range of emotions, from solemnity to curiosity. These emotions can deepen the viewer's engagement with the photographs, allowing for a more profound appreciation of the stories and sentiments captured within each frame.
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Philosophical Musings
Photography, in many ways, is an act of liberation by freezing a moment in time and preserving it from the inevitable flow of change. The CPF's setting in a former prison underscores this idea, highlighting the power of photography to break free from the constraints of time and space. Each photograph becomes a window into another world, offering a glimpse of freedom and expression within the confines of the frame.
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In the realm of black and white photography, the interplay of light and shadow takes on a heightened significance in this setting. The absence of color allows the viewer to focus on the essence of the subject, mirroring the stark simplicity of the prison's architecture. Its minimalist context invites a deeper contemplation of the fundamental elements of photography and their ability to convey emotion and meaning.
A Unique Viewing Experience
Visiting the CPF is not just an opportunity to view remarkable photographs but an immersive experience that engages the viewer on multiple levels. The atmosphere of the former prison enhances the exhibitions, inviting viewers to reflect on the relation between art and history, freedom and constraint. It is a journey that leaves a lasting impression, encouraging a deeper appreciation for the power and beauty of photography.
In this way, the CPF stands as a testament to the transformative power of art, turning a place of confinement into a sanctuary of expression and reflection.
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The Final Word
For anyone interested in photography, a visit to the CPF is a must. The Center's unique setting, combined with its rich collections and educational programs, makes it a compelling destination. Whether you are a professional photographer or a curious enthusiast, the CPF offers a journey through the lens of Portuguese photography that is both enlightening and inspiring.
Photography, at its core, is a medium that captures moments in time, preserving them for future generations. The CPF embodies this philosophy by safeguarding the visual memories of Portugal. Each photograph in its collection tells a story, inviting viewers to contemplate the passage of time and the human experience.
The CPF stands as a testament to the power of photography to capture and preserve this cultural heritage. Its dedication to education and preservation ensures that future generations will continue to appreciate and engage with this art form.
To learn more about the permanent and temporary exhibitions, please refer to the CPF website: https://cpf.pt/
© O. Robert
