Japan: Shitennoji, the Temple of the Four Heavenly Kings in Osaka
Updated: Nov 1
Shitennoji, located in the heart of Osaka City, is one of Japan's oldest temples and has immense cultural and historical significance. It was founded in 593 by Prince Shotoku, a revered figure who dedicated his life to promoting Buddhism in the country. Let’s discover one of the most photogenic pagodas in Japan.
© O. Robert
Shitennoji Temple is now considered as a symbol of Japan's early Buddhist history, cultural heritage, and Prince Shotoku’s lasting influence. Despite the many challenges it has faced, including natural disasters and wartime destruction, the temple has been preserved with a deep commitment to historical accuracy and respect for its origins.
Through its architecture, religious practices, and historical role in promoting education and welfare, Shitennoji remains a landmark of Japanese spirituality and an enduring testament to Prince Shotoku's vision of a compassionate society. Its dedication to preserving history make it not only one of Japan’s oldest temples but also one of its most revered cultural treasures.
Shitennoji is undoubtedly a must-visit site for any photographer interested in Buddhist architecture. Not only is the temple's complex and symmetrical layout spectacular, but its presence within a dense urban context allows for creative plays with the distant buildings. Indeed, Shitennoji is clearly a thoroughly urban temple today.
Moreover, the various structures within the temple, enclosed by imposing walls, create striking contrasts with modern Japanese architecture. As with any historical site, it's wise to exercise patience when photographing the main courtyard and its different halls...
© O. Robert
Now, let's take a close look to its rich history and main characteristics.
Founding and Early History
The foundation of Shitennoji is attributed to Prince Shotoku (574-622), a member of the imperial family and an ardent supporter of Buddhism. Shotoku played a pivotal role in spreading Buddhism in Japan, advocating its teachings and promoting Buddhist practices at a time when the country was primarily following Shinto, the indigenous faith of Japan.
His establishment of Shitennoji Temple marked the official acceptance of Buddhism by the Japanese imperial family and established it as a state religion, a move that significantly influenced Japan’s cultural, philosophical, and architectural development.
Shitennoji is named after the Four Heavenly Kings or "Shitenno". These kings were considered as Buddhist guardian deities and revered as protectors of the nation. According to legend, Prince Shotoku prayed to the Four Heavenly Kings before a decisive battle with the powerful Mononobe clan, which opposed the adoption of Buddhism. After emerging victorious, Shotoku attributed his success to the divine protection of the Shitenno and vowed to build a temple in their honor.
Who Were the Four Heavenly Kings
Known as the Shitenno (四天王), they are protective deities believed to guard the four cardinal directions. Here are their names and attributes:
1. Tamonten (Vaiśravana) - Guardian of the North
Also known as Bishamonten, Tamonten is the leader of the Four Heavenly Kings and the most venerated of them. He is often depicted holding a pagoda, which represents treasure and divine wisdom, and a spear or halberd for protection.
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2. Zōchōten (Virūdhaka) - Guardian of the South
Zōchōten is depicted with a sword and is associated with growth and protection. His role is to guard against evil influences from the south. He is also believed to provide protection to all sentient beings by removing obstacles from their path.
3. Kōmokuten (Virūpāksa) - Guardian of the West
Kōmokuten is often portrayed holding a scroll and a brush, symbolizing wisdom and insight. His function is to oversee all that is happening in the west, using his power of divine sight to detect and dispel evil.
4. Jikokuten (Dhrtarāstra) - Guardian of the East
Jikokuten is usually depicted holding a spear and is responsible for guarding the eastern direction. He protects the Dharma (Buddhist teachings) and those who follow it, ensuring peace and harmony.
© O. Robert
To which Buddhist sect did Shitennoji belong?
When Shitennoji Temple was originally built in 593, Japan did not yet have formally established Buddhist sects as we know them today. Prince Shotoku introduced and promoted Buddhism in Japan as a unified practice based on Mahayana Buddhism without division into specific sects. During this early period, Japanese Buddhism was a direct transmission of teachings from China and Korea, drawing primarily on the Sanron (Three Treatises) and Jojitsu (Establishment of Truth) schools, both of which were early Mahayana traditions known in China and adopted in Japan.
The more distinct sects like the Tendai and Shingon schools (that I regularly refer to in my articles) did not formally emerge in Japan until the Heian period (794-1185), about 2 centuries later. Shitennoji, therefore, initially operated as a general center of Buddhist worship and study without sectarian affiliation, focused instead on serving as a place of compassion, teaching, and care.
Prince Shotoku’s Legacy
Shotoku’s legacy is strongly associated with Shitennoji. In addition to his deep interest in Buddhism, the Prince was also an early political reformer who contributed significantly to the Japanese legal and administrative systems.
His influence is evident in the Seventeen-Article Constitution, a moral and political guide that established Buddhist and Confucian principles as guiding values for governance in Japan. This Constitution is often seen as a foundational document for Japanese governance and a landmark in the development of Japanese culture.
To commemorate Prince Shotoku, Shitennoji holds several festivals, with the most significant being "Shotoku Taishi Eshiki", held annually on April 22, the anniversary of Shotoku's death. This festival features a memorial service and a procession of monks and followers, celebrating Shotoku’s role in establishing Buddhism in Japan and his contributions to Japanese society.
© O. Robert
Architectural Significance of Shitennoji
One of the most remarkable aspects of the temple is its architectural layout, which reflects ancient Asuka period (593-710) temple design. The original layout, which has been faithfully preserved through successive reconstructions, includes a five-story pagoda, a main hall, called "Kondo", a lecture hall, called "Kodo", and a gate flanked by corridors that form a distinctive rectangular plan. This layout is known as the “Shitennoji style” and became a model for later Buddhist temple designs in Japan.
The temple, however, has not survived in its original form due to the devastating effects of natural disasters, fires, and wartime bombings. Osaka suffered particularly during World War II, and much of the temple was destroyed during air raids.
Each time the temple suffered damage, it was meticulously rebuilt following the original architectural plans, with the latest reconstruction completed in 1963. The dedication to restoring Shitennoji to its original design demonstrates the historical and cultural reverence for the temple and its founder, Prince Shotoku.
Important Structures within the Temple Complex
Shitennoji Temple consists of several key structures, each holding symbolic and functional significance. Here are some important ones:
- Gokurakumon (Paradise Gate): The main entrance gate to Shitennoji is known as Gokurakumon or the “Paradise Gate.” Visitors enter the temple through this gate, which symbolizes the journey from the mundane world to the sacred realm of Buddha’s paradise. The gate is typically painted red, a color often associated with purification and protection from evil in Japanese culture.
- Chushin Garan (Central Precinct): The heart of Shitennoji is the Chushin Garan, or the Central Precinct, where the main religious structures are located. This area is based on the classic Asuka-style layout, with buildings arranged symmetrically.
The Garan includes the Five-Story Pagoda (see below), the Main Hall (Kondo), and the Lecture Hall (Kodo). The Five-Story Pagoda serves as a repository for sacred Buddhist relics, while the Main Hall houses the temple’s primary deity, Kannon Bosatsu (the Bodhisattva of Compassion).
© O. Robert
- Torii Gate: Unique to Shitennoji among Buddhist temples, the presence of a traditional Shinto Torii gate at its entrance reflects Japan’s syncretic religious history, where Buddhism and Shinto coexisted and often intertwined.
The Torii symbolizes the divine protection of Prince Shotoku and signifies the blending of Shinto and Buddhist elements. This policy was called "Shinbutsu shūgō". To know more about the Torii, their symbols and their significance, you can read my dedicated article here.
- Rokujido (Six-Syllable Hall): This hall is dedicated to a Buddhist mantra and is an important site within the temple complex, where prayers are conducted for the deceased.
- Kame-no-Ike (Turtle Pond): Within the temple grounds is a pond populated with turtles, which are considered auspicious creatures in Japanese culture. The pond, known as Kame-no-Ike, is a peaceful retreat within the bustling city and adds to the serene atmosphere of Shitennoji.
A Spectacular Five-Story Pagoda
Like many photographers, I've always been attracted to the Japanese and Chinese pagodas. Not only because they make fascinating subjects in photography but also for their intrinsic architectural beauty, which makes them, for me, works of art.
The Shitennoji's pagoda is one of the central and most iconic structures in the temple complex. Like many traditional pagodas in Japan, it holds deep symbolic, architectural, and religious significance. Here are its key characteristics:
1. Symbolic Representation
The Five-Story Pagoda is a representation of the Buddhist cosmos and five elements in Buddhist cosmology: earth, water, fire, wind, and void (or spirit). Each tier symbolizes one of these elements, rising from the earthly to the ethereal, culminating at the top with the “Sorin” (finial), which represents the void.
Pagodas in Japan are often seen as reliquaries for sacred relics, and Shitennoji’s pagoda is no exception. It traditionally houses relics of the Buddha, underscoring its role as a sacred and protected space within the temple complex.
© O. Robert
2. Architectural Style
Shitennoji’s pagoda is constructed in a traditional Asuka style, which means it has a rectangular, slightly minimalist design with clean lines and an emphasis on symmetry. This architectural style reflects the temple’s roots as one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples.
The wooden structure of the pagoda features distinctively raised eaves, which are designed to create a sense of upward movement, drawing the viewer’s gaze toward the heavens. The central pillar, called "Shinbashira", runs vertically through the entire structure, adding stability to the building. This structural innovation is common to Japanese pagodas and makes them exceptionally earthquake-resistant.
The current structure, reconstructed 8 times due to destruction from fire, natural disasters, and war, reflects a continuous dedication to preserving Shitennoji’s original design. Each reconstruction adheres to ancient techniques and traditional materials, demonstrating the temple’s commitment to historical authenticity.
3. Aesthetic Design
Painted in red and white, the pagoda’s colors are traditionally associated with protection and spirituality in Japanese culture. The contrasting colors give the structure a striking appearance while symbolizing purity (white) and protection against evil (red).
Each of the five roofs is slightly curved upward at the edges, a style that is both functional (aiding in water runoff) and aesthetic, adding elegance to the structure. The pagoda’s symmetry and vertical ascent lend it an air of calmness and balance, aligning well with the minimalist aesthetic and timelessness characteristic of Shitennoji Temple as a whole.
The pagoda is surrounded by corridors that form a rectangular enclosure, positioning it as a focal point in the traditional layout. This location reflects the temple’s adoption of early Chinese and Korean Buddhist architectural influences, especially from the Sui and Tang dynasties, which often centered pagodas within monastic layouts.
© O. Robert
4. Ritual and Religious Use
Traditionally, only monks or temple officials have access to the pagoda’s interior, as it is considered a sacred space meant for the housing of relics rather than general entry. The pagoda serves as a focal point for Buddhist ceremonies and festivals held at Shitennoji, especially during significant events. The pagoda’s role as a reliquary and spiritual symbol encourages reflection and prayer, drawing visitors who seek to honor Buddhist teachings and Prince Shotoku’s legacy.
Shitennoji’s Influence
Shitennoji’s impact extends beyond its religious significance. It also played an educational and social role in ancient Japan. Prince Shotoku envisioned Shitennoji not just as a place of worship but also as a center of learning and social welfare.
Adjacent to the temple, Prince Shotoku established Japan’s earliest welfare facilities:
The "Seyakuin" (pharmacy)
The "Ryobyo-in" (hospital)
The "Hiden-in" (orphanage)
These facilities were revolutionary at the time, providing essential services to people regardless of their social status and emphasizing the Buddhist principles of compassion and selflessness.
Shitennoji in the Modern Era
Today, Shitennoji is an active center of worship and a significant historical site that attracts visitors from around the world. It has undergone numerous renovations to maintain its structures and gardens, but the reverence for its origins is carefully preserved.
The temple serves as a venue for various Buddhist rituals, including daily chanting services, special ceremonies on Buddhist holy days, and annual events like the "Oeshiki Ceremony". This event is celebrated in honor of Nichiren, the founder of the Nichiren sect of Buddhism.
But I said earlier that the temple does not belong to any Buddhist sect...
Indeed, Shitennoji, despite not being a Nichiren-affiliated temple, commemorates the anniversary of Nichiren’s passing. An event observed at various temples, regardless of sectarian affiliation, as an act of respect for Nichiren’s influence on Japanese Buddhism in general.
© O. Robert
The inclusion of Nichiren-related events at Shitennoji reflects the temple’s broad, inclusive approach to Buddhist traditions, allowing practices from various sects to be honored within its grounds. Shitennoji’s openness to diverse practices aligns with the original vision of Prince Shotoku. This inclusive spirit has allowed Shitennoji to serve as a cross-sectarian space where followers of various Buddhist paths, including Nichiren’s teachings, are welcomed.
As part of its mission to preserve cultural heritage, Shitennoji also has a museum within its complex that houses a collection of historical artifacts, Buddhist statues, and other religious treasures. This museum offers insights into the temple's long history and serves as an educational resource for both Japanese and international visitors.
Shitennoji and Photography
Shitennoji Temple stands as a testament to Japan's spiritual and cultural heritage. In the realm of black and white photography, this historical site transcends its physical form, inviting a deeper exploration of its essence. Monochrome imagery allows us to focus on the interplay of light and shadow, texture, and form. This reduction creates a visual language that resonates with the temple’s timelessness, evoking a sense of nostalgia that connects us to the past.
The absence of color mirrors the quietude and simplicity inherent in Shitennoji's design. It highlights the gentle curves of the pagoda and the serene ambiance of the main halls or corridors. Each photograph becomes a portal to the past, a moment captured in time that whispers stories of devotion, resilience, and the human spirit.
In capturing Shitennoji in monochrome, we not only document its architectural beauty but also evoke a profound sense of reverence. The stillness and minimalism of black and white photography reflect the temple's ethos, urging us to pause and reflect on the passage of time.
© O. Robert
How to Get There
Shitennoji Temple is located in the Tennoji district of Osaka. Here’s how to get there:
Address: 1-11-18 Shitennoji, Tennoji Ward, Osaka, 543-0051, Japan.
1. By Train:
From Osaka Station:
Take the JR Loop Line to Tennoji Station (approximately 30 minutes).
From Tennoji Station, take the East Exit and walk about 10-15 minutes to reach Shitennoji.
From Namba Station:
Take the Subway Midosuji Line to Namba Station, then transfer to the Tanimachi Line and get off at Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Station. This station is a short walk from the temple (about 5 minutes).
2. By Bus:
Several city buses stop near Shitennoji Temple, including the Kintetsu Bus and Osaka City Bus services.
