Japan: Photographing Koyasan, A Journey Through History and Spirituality
Updated: Nov 30
Nestled in the lush mountains of Wakayama Prefecture, Koyasan, stands as one of Japan's most sacred and revered sites. Its history, spirituality, and natural beauty make it a must-visit destination in Japan. Whether you're a pilgrim, a history enthusiast, or a photographer, Koyasan promises a journey you won't forget.
I remember visiting Koyasan for the first time, long before my first pilgrimage to the 88 temples of Shikoku. Although I had not yet acquired the basic knowledge to appreciate Shingon Buddhist culture, my memories remain unforgettable. And my subsequent visits over the years have only confirmed this interest.
There is something unique that permeates these spiritual places, creating an atmosphere that is both serene and profound. Nestled in a landscape of verdant hills, Koyasan stretches its history from temples to cemetery, marking our journey with majestic pagodas and centuries-old cedars.
Undeniably, this sacred village is an important source of inspiration for photographers interested in Japanese Buddhist art and heritage. The optimal conditions, combined with a significant emotional charge, seem to make the photographer responsible at every turn.
Although every season is interesting, I highly recommend visiting and staying in Koyasan during the winter. Firstly, because there are naturally fewer people, but also because Mount Koya is often shrouded in mist. The lights are then exceptional, and the atmosphere transports visitors to another time.
First Snow, Danjo Garan, Koyasan | Fine Art Print © O. Robert (Available for purchase here)
Even if this article aims to be as comprehensive as possible, it is impossible for me to detail all the places that make up the village of Koyasan and their specific histories. This would require an entire book. I mainly want to stay concise and focus on the aspects that seem most important to enlighten photographers who wish to visit Koyasan.
For those who want to learn more about these places, you will find at the end of each chapter a link to my specific articles that delve deeper into each of them. That being said, and as always, let's take a closer look at the history of this fascinating place that is Koyasan.
Contents:
A Millennium of Faith
Koyasan's history dates back to the 9th century when the monk Kukai (774-835), posthumously known as Kobo Daishi, established the first Shingon Buddhism temple atop the mountain of Mount Koya in the Kii Mountain range. Kukai was seeking a secluded place to practice his esoteric form of Buddhism, known as Shingon. He found it in Koyasan's dense forests and towering peaks, reminiscent of the lotus petals he had envisioned.
© O. Robert
What is Shingon Buddhism?
Shingon Buddhism is a major school of Japanese Buddhism founded by the monk Kukai (mentioned above) in the early 9th century. It is an esoteric form of Buddhism, emphasizing secret teachings and rituals aimed at achieving enlightenment within this lifetime.
Key characteristics include the use of mandalas (symbolic diagrams of the Buddhist cosmos), mantras (sacred chants), and mudras (ritual hand gestures) in spiritual practices. Shingon Buddhism integrates elements of Hinduism and other religious traditions, reflecting Kukai's synthesis of various spiritual teachings.
The sect's headquarters is located at Mount Koya (Koyasan), where Kukai established a monastic complex that remains a significant pilgrimage site. Shingon Buddhism has had a profound influence on Japanese culture, art, and literature, and continues to be a vibrant spiritual tradition in Japan.
To learn more about Shingon Buddhism, its culture, philosophy, statuary, and temples, you can read my numerous articles dedicated to it here.
Over centuries, Koyasan grew into a thriving spiritual community. Its significance over time is not merely religious. It has also played a crucial role in Japan's cultural and political landscape. The Shingon esoteric teachings and rituals have influenced Japanese art, literature, and architecture. Notably, the elaborate mandalas and powerful mantras of Shingon have left a lasting mark on Japanese aesthetics.
Also, Koyasan and its leaders have maintained close ties with Japan's imperial court and prominent political figures. For instance, during the Heian period (794-1185), several emperors and nobles sought spiritual guidance and political counsel from Koyasan's monks. This political involvement continued through the centuries, with notable figures like Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu supporting and visiting Koyasan.
Temples and Sacred Places for Photography
Koyasan was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. It was inscribed as part of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range" listing, which also includes Kumano Sanzan and Yoshino and Omine.
Today, Koyasan is drawing visitors from around the globe. It remains a sacred place for pilgrims and a popular destination for those seeking to immerse themselves in Japan's rich history and culture. Its importance lies not only in its past but also in its present role as a center for spiritual retreat and cultural preservation.
To learn more about the spiritual and architectural characteristics of Koyasan, I highly recommend reading this reference book:
Koyasan is now home to over 100 temples, each with its unique charm and historical significance. Here are some of the main spots you shouldn't miss during your photo tour:
Daimon Gate
The Daimon Gate (photo below) is a two-story wooden gate built in the traditional Japanese architectural style known as Niōmon. This style is characterized by its grandeur and ornate details, typical of important temple entrances. The Daimon Gate has a rich history dating back to the 11th century, although the current structure was rebuilt in the early 18th century.
© O. Robert
The gate features a large, tiled roof with elegant curves, supported by intricately carved wooden beams and pillars. It stands at an imposing height of approximately 25 meters, making it one of the largest Niōmon gates in Japan. Like most of the Japanese gates, it is meant to symbolize the boundary between the secular world and the sacred realm of Koyasan.
One of the most striking features of the Daimon Gate is the pair of Niō statues housed within. These are large, wooden sculptures of guardian deities, known as Kongōrikishi, which stand sentinel on either side of the gate. The statues are renowned for their fierce expressions and powerful stances, intended to ward off evil spirits and protect the sacred site.
Banryuten Rock Garden of Kongobuji | Fine Art Print © O. Robert (Available for purchase here)
Kongobuji Temple
Kongobuji Temple (photo above), deeply tied to Kukai (Kobo Daishi), was established in the 9th century as a center for esoteric teachings. Originally named Kongosanmaiin, it was later renamed Kongobuji, or "Temple of the Diamond Mountain".
Throughout its history, Kongobuji has experienced periods of growth, decline, and reconstruction, notably during the Heian period (794-1185) when it enjoyed imperial patronage, and the Edo period (1603-1868) under Tokugawa Ieyasu's support.
Amongst the key figures associated with Kongobuji, I would mention:
Kukai (774-835), whose teachings remain influential
Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598), who commissioned the Banryutei rock garden
Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616), whose patronage ensured the temple's preservation
Kongobuji is also renowned for its architectural beauty. These features showcase the temple's rich history and the artistic heritage of Shingon Buddhism. I would mention the following ones, particularly interesting for photography:
The Seimon Gate (Entrance gate - Photo below)
The Banryutei rock garden (photo above)
The Ohiroma main hall
The Shinbetsuden room (Annex room for welcoming guests)
The Sho-in room (Ceremony room)
The Ajikan Dojo (Training room for meditation)
The fusuma paintings (Sliding doors paintings)
The Nakaniwa Courtyard (Meditative garden)
The cultural significance of Kongobuji extends beyond its religious role, preserving and promoting Japanese art, literature, and cultural practices. It has trained countless monks and scholars, spreading Shingon Buddhism globally. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Kongobuji offers visitors a serene and contemplative environment to experience Japan's rich history and spirituality.
Whether a spiritual seeker, a history enthusiast, or a photographer, Kongobuji promises an enriching visit, making it a must-see destination for exploring Koyasan Shingon culture and spirituality.
Danjo Garan
Danjo Garan (photo above) is a sprawling temple complex also known as the "Temple of the Great Practice". Established in the 9th century, it has evolved through periods of growth, destruction, and reconstruction, with significant developments during the Heian (794-1185), Kamakura (1185-1333), Muromachi (1336-1573), and Edo (1603-1868) periods, like most of the major structures of Koyasan.
Amongst the key figures associated with Danjo Garan, and in addition to Kukai, I would mention:
Emperor Saga (786-842): Provided significant support for the construction and expansion of Danjo Garan.
Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598): Financially supported the reconstruction of Danjo Garan following periods of destruction.
Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616), who ensured the preservation and expansion of Danjo Garan during the Edo period.
The complex features notable and beautiful structures such as:
Kondo Hall: The main worship hall, housing important Buddhist statues and artifacts.
Konpon Daito Pagoda: An iconic towering red pagoda symbolizing the axis mundi, featuring intricate carvings, Buddhist statues, mandalas, relics, and surrounded by beautiful gardens (photo above and photo below).
Miedo Hall: Dedicated to Kobo Daishi, housing a statue of the revered monk and used for rituals and ceremonies.
Fudo Hall: Dedicated to Fudo Myoo, housing a statue of the wrathful deity.
Saito Pagoda: Dedicated to the Eleven-Faced Kannon, known for its elegant architecture (photo below).
Scripture Storage Hall (Kyozo): A repository for sacred scriptures and texts, used for the preservation of sacred texts. A ceremony called "Shakyo".
What is Shakyo?
Shakyo is a traditional Japanese practice of hand-copying Buddhist sutras or scriptures. This meditative and devotional activity involves carefully transcribing religious texts using calligraphy, often onto decorative paper or scrolls.
Practitioners engage in shakyo to deepen their understanding of Buddhist teachings, cultivate mindfulness, and earn spiritual merit. The practice is believed to bring blessings and purify the mind. Shakyo is commonly performed in temples and can be undertaken by both monks and laypeople (like pilgrims or tourists), offering a tangible connection to ancient Buddhist traditions and scriptures.
Each building of the Danjo Garan holds spiritual and architectural significance, with the Konpon Daito Pagoda being a standout for photographers due to its intricate design and symbolism. The complex is laid out in a mandala-like pattern, reflecting Shingon Buddhist teachings.
Danjo Garan's cultural importance extends beyond religion, preserving Japanese art, literature, and practices. It has trained countless monks and scholars, spreading Shingon Buddhism globally. It offers a serene and contemplative environment where visitors can experience its rich history and spirituality through various ceremonies, including the daily Fire Ceremony called "Goma".
Okuno-in Cemetery
A visit to Okuno-in offers a profound experience, with its serene atmosphere, ancient forest, and ornate memorials. It provides a unique opportunity to explore Japan's rich history, culture, and spirituality through the lens. The cemetery's tranquil beauty and cultural significance make it a must-visit destination for spiritual seekers, history enthusiasts, and cultural explorers.
This is definitely the most sacred site in Koyasan, housing the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi himself where, according to believers, Kobo Daishi is said to have entered into eternal meditation.
The approach to the cemetery through an amazing forest, lined with ancient cedar trees and moss-covered gravestones, is an ethereal experience. This is definitely the place to spend some hours day time and at night to capture the unique and timeless atmosphere.
Okuno-in is Japan's largest cemetery, spanning over 2 kilometers and housing more than 200.000 graves and has evolved into a vast necropolis for devotees and prominent figures seeking spiritual proximity to the revered monk Kukai.
Like almost all significant structures in Koyasan, Okuno-in has also evolved significantly during the following periods:
Heian Period (794-1185): Okuno-in began to take shape as imperial court members and nobles constructed memorials near Kobo Daishi's mausoleum.
Kamakura Period (1185-1333): The samurai class rose, and military leaders sought burial near Kobo Daishi, leading to the construction of numerous memorials.
Muromachi Period (1336-1573): Despite wars and instability, Okuno-in saw new memorials and restorations, reflecting enduring devotion.
Edo Period (1603-1868): Under the Tokugawa Shogunate, Okuno-in flourished, with many impressive memorials dating back to this era.
Similarly, like the previously mentioned places (Kongobuji and Danjo Garan), Okuno-in also benefited from the significant support of important figures such as:
Emperor Shirakawa (1053-1129): Provided financial support for Okuno-in's expansion.
Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598): Financially supported the construction and restoration of memorials.
Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616): Ensured Okuno-in's preservation and expansion during the Edo period.
As we can easily imagine, in a cemetery over 2 kilometers long, nestled in the heart of an incredible cedar forest, we can discover a multitude of monuments and stone lanterns as remarkable as their setting. However, not all of these monuments are easy to photograph due to their location. Among the most spectacular, I would particularly note:
Ichinohashi Bridge: Traditional entrance symbolizing the transition from the secular world to the sacred realm.
Gobyobashi Bridge: Marks the halfway point of the pilgrimage route and separates the cemetery from the Kobo Daishi Mausoleum (Gobyo).
Muenzuka Memorial: A pyramidal structure composed of numerous small statues in honor of deceased individuals who have no relatives and whose graves can no longer be maintained by anyone (photo below).
Gokusho: Purification hall for ritual cleansing before approaching the mausoleum.
Torodo Hall: Houses thousands of perpetually lit lanterns donated by devotees.
Miroku Stone: Believed to weigh the virtues and sins of visitors.
Kobo Daishi Mausoleum (Gobyo): Definitely the most interesting and revered place of Okuno-in. The mausoleum constitues the spiritual heart of the cemetery, where devotees pay respects and seek blessings. However, please note that it is possible to approach this mausoleum but it is forbidden to photograph it.
Among the thousands of graves that make up Okuno-in, many belong to famous figures. Whether they are politicians, shogun, samurai, business leaders, or artists, many of these figures have chosen Okuno-in as their final resting place.
Their significance in the country's history can be easily measured by the grandeur of their monuments. It would be impossible to provide an exhaustive list here, but here are a few names I would like to mention:
Historical Figures:
Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582)
Takeda Shingen (1521-1573)
Date Masamune (1567-1636)
Natsume Soseki (1867-1916)
Uesugi Kenshin (1530-1578)
Kido Takayoshi (1833-1877)
Fukuzawa Yukichi (1835-1901)
Contemporary Figures:
Hashimoto Ryutaro (1937-2006)
Matsushita Konosuke (1894-1989)
Inamori Kazuo (1932-present, expressed desire)
Kobayashi Takeshi (1959-present, potential future burial)
Murakami Haruki (1949-present, expressed admiration)
Women Pilgrims' Trail
The Women Pilgrims' Trail is a historic path known as the Nyonin Michi (女人道) or Nyonin Tozando. The name translates to "Women's Pilgrimage Route" or "Women's Ascent Path." This trail has a significant historical and cultural background, stemming from the traditions and rules of Mount Koya during the Edo period.
I must clarify here that neither I nor my wife have hiked this trail. Therefore, it is impossible for me to illustrate it with photographs. However, I wish to mention it in this article for the sake of completeness. Having read extensively about it, here is what can be said.
Origin of the Nyonin Michi
The Nyonin Michi originates from the historical practice of excluding women from Mount Koya, a policy known as Nyonin Kinsei (女人禁制), which was in effect from the early days of Koyasan until the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century.
This exclusion was based on various religious and cultural beliefs of the time, including the idea that women were considered "sources of impurity and distraction" (I apologize to my female readers) for the monks undergoing rigorous spiritual training.
Despite this exclusion, women who wished to make a pilgrimage to Koyasan were not entirely barred from the sacred mountain. Instead, they were allowed to circumambulate the mountain along a designated trail that ran around its perimeter. This Nyonin Michi trail, provided women with an alternative route to express their devotion and seek spiritual connection to Kobo Daishi and the sacred sites of Koyasan.
The Trail
The Nyonin Michi is a scenic and historically significant trail that offers beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The path is approximately 22 kilometers long and encircles the sacred precincts of Koyasan.
Along the trail, pilgrims can find various historical markers, small shrines, and natural landmarks that have been revered by generations of women pilgrims. The trail traditionally begins and ends at Jison-in Temple, located at the foot of Mount Koya. Jison-in is providing women pilgrims with a place to pray and prepare for their journey.
Modern Significance of the Nyonin Michi
Today, the Nyonin Michi is open to all pilgrims, regardless of gender, and serves as a popular hiking and spiritual trail. It offers a unique opportunity to experience the rich history and cultural heritage of Koyasan while enjoying the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape. The trail is well-maintained and marked, making it accessible for visitors of all ages and abilities.
Walking the Nyonin Michi provides a deeper understanding of the historical and cultural context of Koyasan, as well as a chance to connect with the spiritual journey of the women who walked this path in the past. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a nature lover, or a spiritual seeker, the Nyonin Michi offers a memorable and enriching experience.
Spirituality, Culture, and Shukubo
Koyasan's main characteristics are its profound spirituality, breathtaking natural beauty, and rich cultural heritage. The mountain's seclusion and tranquility offer a unique opportunity for spiritual reflection and renewal. Its dense forests, towering cedars, and scenic trails provide a stunning backdrop for photography, particularly in black and white, which best captures the essence of this timeless place.
Culturally, Koyasan is a treasure trove. From its traditional temples and rituals to its unique shukubo (see below) and shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), it offers an immersive experience of Japanese culture and history.
What is a Shukubo?
A shukubo (宿坊) is a type of traditional Japanese accommodation found at Buddhist temples. The term literally translates to "Temple lodging." Originally, shukubo were established to provide shelter for pilgrims and worshippers visiting sacred sites. Today, they offer a unique and immersive experience for travelers seeking to understand and participate in the daily life of a Buddhist temple.
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Consequently, staying in a shukubo should not be considered as just a place to sleep but as an immersive cultural experience. It offers a chance to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of daily life and connect with the spiritual and historical aspects of Japan.
Whether you are a spiritual seeker, a history enthusiast, or simply looking for a unique travel experience, a stay in a shukubo can be deeply enriching. Here are some features of what you would experience while staying in a shukubo:
Tatami Mat Rooms
Guest rooms in a shukubo are typically furnished with tatami mats, traditional Japanese flooring made from woven straw. Futons are provided for sleeping, offering a simple and authentic experience.
I must add that these rooms are not heated. So, if you visit Koyasan in winter (which is a good idea), expect to have a uniquely chilly experience! The monks will provide you with a kerosene heater at best, but it proves ineffective given the poor insulation of these ancient buildings. Therefore, make sure to travel well-equipped.
© O. Robert
Shojin Ryori
Meals at a shukubo are exclusively vegetarian, following the principles of shojin ryori, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. These meals are carefully prepared by the monks and often include seasonal ingredients, providing a healthy and delicious culinary experience. Please be aware that the meals are provided very early at night (around 5pm). This might be a good opportunity to go out for shooting after the meal.
Spiritual and Cultural Activities
Guests are often invited to participate in morning prayers (5am) or meditation sessions at night. This offers a rare opportunity to experience the spiritual practices of the temple firsthand.. Some shukubo offer additional cultural activities such as calligraphy, tea ceremonies, or sutra copying. These activities provide deeper insights into Japanese traditions and Buddhist practices.
Tranquil Atmosphere
Staying in a shukubo allows guests to experience the serene and peaceful atmosphere of a Buddhist temple. The surroundings are often quiet and conducive to reflection and relaxation. This tranquility is particularly appreciated by photographers who can draw an almost meditative inspiration from it, especially in the evening, when most tourists have returned to the valley.
I highly recommend experiencing this in winter, as the atmosphere in Koyasan is particularly special at this time. Night falls very early in Japan, which leaves plenty of time to appreciate the subtle lighting of the temples and Danjo Garan. Plus, if you're lucky enough to experience snowfalls, you'll create unforgettable memories.
Do you want to learn more about the creative power of snow in minimalist photography? Read my dedicated article here.
Significant Economic Challenges
To be completely honest with my readers, I must take a moment to address the purely spiritual vocation of these shukubo. Far from minimizing the interest of staying in these temples, I believe it is important to put things into context and remain realistic.
For several years, the economic difficulties faced by the temples of Koyasan and elsewhere have been severely felt. While we often tend to value and see only the sacred or spiritual character of these places, the fact remains that they must be managed like any other enterprise. Therefore, these temples also require quality financial management to cover the costs associated with their proper functioning and the renovation of the historic buildings that comprise them.
© O. Robert
Generally, temples in Japan are exempt from taxes. Additionally, the government and prefectural subsidies they receive, along with donations from pilgrims and local businesses, might suggest that their economic future is secure. However, the reality is quite different.
Due to very poor cash management and disastrous investments, the Koyasan temples have had no choice but to open up to tourism to ensure their survival. Thus, shukubo have flourished. By opening their doors to tourists seeking exotic experiences, the owners of temples have realized the economic potential this represents. And if this opening to tourism can help them out of a worrying financial situation, then why not. After all, everyone benefits in the end.
Nevertheless, the cultural and spiritual activities that frame these stays in shukubo remain authentic and offer great interest to those who wish to learn more about the life of the monks. A stay in these places also serves as an important source of inspiration for all photographers.
Koyasan and Photography
Visiting Koyasan is more than just a trip. It should be considered as a personal journey through Japanese history and Faith. Whether you're seeking spiritual renewal, a connection with nature, or a deep dive into Japanese history and culture, Koyasan offers it all. As a photographer, I found the mountain's serene beauty and timeless atmosphere incredibly inspiring.
The temples and sacred grounds like Kongobuji, Danjo Garan, or the tranquil expanses of Okuno-in Cemetery do more than evoke centuries of history. They stand as silent, witnesses to the layers of life and death, devotion and impermanence that have shaped them. Each stone, each statue, softened by moss and the slow erosion of time, tells a story not only of what once was, but of what remains.
Photographing Koyasan is an act of reverence, a commitment to honoring the spirit of Wabi-Sabi, an acceptance of imperfection. To capture these spaces demands humility and restraint, an understanding that the power of the scene lies not in what the photographer imposes, but in what they quietly reveal.
Here, the camera does not conquer but simply bears witness. In each photograph, one hopes to convey not only the forms, but the essence of a place where time stands still, honoring its spirituality and inviting reflection on our own fleeting existence.
