Japan: Nanzo-in, the Reclining Buddha Temple
Updated: Oct 31, 2024
Nanzo-in Temple, located in the quiet town of Sasaguri, Fukuoka Prefecture, is one of Japan’s most significant Buddhist temples. Known for its enormous reclining Buddha statue, which ranks among the largest bronze statues in the world, the temple has a history deeply rooted in the local area, offering visitors a rich blend of spiritual and cultural experiences.
© O. Robert
Nanzo-in Temple offers a blend of deep spiritual significance, natural beauty, and historical importance. From the awe-inspiring reclining Buddha statue to its role as part of the Sasaguri Pilgrimage, the temple remains one of Kyushu’s most essential religious landmarks.
If you are a regular reader of this blog, you are certainly already familiar with my attachment to the temples of the Shingon sect, for which I have had the pleasure of publishing several articles. This sect (or movement, or school) is one of the oldest in Japan (after Nara Buddhism) and is definitively the oldest still active in the country. You can find all my articles about the Shingon sect here.
© O. Robert
Having explored the statuary of thousands of Shingon temples over the past 20 years, there are several that have particularly left a strong impression on me. Whether due to their antiquity, remarkable preservation, sculptures, or simply their unique atmosphere. Naturally, Nanzo-in is part of this short list of unforgettable temples. Having photographed it multiple times, I find the ambiance of this complex to be exceptional, even if Nanzo-in is not as ancient as its counterparts located on the island of Shikoku.
Temples and Increasing Tourism
Although in recent years, like many other temples, Nanzo-in has not escaped the massive influx of tourists, who often confuse a spiritual site with a folkloric curiosity, it remains a temple that has successfully preserved its harmony and traditions.
Unfortunately, the sometimes deviant behavior of certain tourists (including photographers) has led many temples to take more drastic measures. This is to control how visitors (often foreigners) behave and to ensure that they do not disturb those coming to these sacred places to practice their faith. It is therefore not uncommon to see, for example, tripods or large photographic equipment simply banned.
© O. Robert
This is obviously the case in most temples in Kyōto, an important tourist hub in the country. However, during my stays at the temples of Shikoku, along the Henro pilgrimage routes, I never encountered such restrictions and was always able to use my tripods as I wished. Unfortunately, this is no longer the case at Nanzo-in, except with special permission, which I have had the honor of obtaining. Naturally, this forces me to visit outside of opening hours, which is not necessarily when the light is most interesting. But you can't have everything...
Let's now take a closer look at what this temple is made of and dive for a moment into its rather unique history.
Historical Background
Nanzo-in Temple belongs to the Koyasan Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism, which was founded by the monk Kukai, also known as Kōbō Daishi, in the early 9th century. The temple, however, has a much more recent history. While the current temple site at Sasaguri dates from the Meiji period (1868-1912), the origins of Nanzo-in can be traced back much earlier, to a different location.
© O. Robert
The original Nanzo-in Temple was actually established on the Mount Koya during the Tenpo era (1830-1844) of the Edo period. However, due to the increasing popularity of the temple and the influx of worshippers, it became a target during Japan’s Meiji-era governmental policies of Shinbutsu bunri, a movement that sought to separate Shintoism and Buddhism, often leading to the persecution of Buddhist institutions. In 1886, the government attempted to seize Nanzo-in's land and assets.
In order to save the temple from potential destruction, Hayashi Satoshiun, the head priest at the time made the decision to move it to Sasaguri, a more remote and peaceful location, in 1899. A decision approved by the Fukuoka Prefecture Government. This new site allowed Nanzo-in to flourish in a rural setting that aligned well with the temple's contemplative nature, nestled in the mountains and forests of northern Kyushu.
Sasaguri Pilgrimage
Since the 19th to early 20th century, Nanzo-in is also part of a much larger temple complex known as the Sasaguri Pilgrimage, which consists of 88 temples and sacred sites spread throughout the surrounding area. This pilgrimage is modeled after the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage, which features a similar number of temples and honors the legacy of Kukai.
The Sasaguri Pilgrimage stretches over 44 kilometers (1,200 kilometers for the Shikoku Pilgrimage) and takes several days to complete on foot. You can read my articles about the Shikoku 88-temple Pilgrimage here.
The Sasaguri Pilgrimage experiences increased popularity during the Showa period (1926-1989), drawing more pilgrims and tourists to Nanzo-in Temple and the surrounding sacred sites.
Kongosho, Sacred Relic of Nanzo-in Temple © O. Robert
What is a Kongosho in Shingon Buddhism?
In Japanese Buddhism, especially within the Shingon sect, a Kongosho (金剛杵), shown on the photo above, is a ritual object symbolizing both spiritual power and indestructibility. The term "Kongosho" is derived from Sanskrit "Vajra," which means "Diamond" (representing indestructibility) and "Thunderbolt" (symbolizing irresistible force).
The kongosho is often depicted as a short, club-like object with symmetrical prongs or points at both ends. It represents the ability to cut through ignorance and illusion with clarity, much like a diamond cuts through anything, and it also conveys the unstoppable power of enlightened wisdom. In esoteric Buddhist rituals, the kongosho is used by priests to signify compassion and wisdom, and it plays a crucial role in many meditative and ceremonial practices, representing both a weapon against delusion and a tool of spiritual protection.
Additionally, the kongosho can symbolize the union of opposites, such as the fusion of the "expedient method" or "skillful means" (upaya) and wisdom (prajna), a key concept in esoteric Buddhism. It's a central emblem in Shingon and Tendai Buddhist ceremonies, where it is often held during mudra (hand gestures) and mantra recitations to invoke divine power and protection.
© O. Robert
The Creation of the Reclining Buddha
Nanzo-in's most prominent feature today is the enormous reclining Buddha statue (photo above), constructed in 1995. This statue, measuring 41 meters in length, 11 meters in height, and weighing approximately 300 tons, is larger than even the famous Great Buddha of Kamakura. The statue, known as the "Nehanzo," depicts the Buddha in his final moments before entering "Parinirvana" (the state of nirvana after death), a common representation in Buddhist iconography.
The construction of the statue was part of a larger movement by the temple’s current head priest to promote world peace and healing, specifically referencing the temple’s dedication to those who have died in conflicts or suffer from illnesses.
The reclining Buddha also houses within it sacred relics said to be from the historical Buddha and two Buddhist adherents, Ānanda and Maudgalyayana. They were donated to the temple in 1995 by more than 1,000 monks coming from Myanmar (Burma) and Nepal. These relics, stored in a chamber inside the statue, add a unique spiritual significance to the site.
The statue is also remarkable for its accessibility to worshippers. Visitors can touch the rope that hang from the statue's hands and feet, which is believed to bring blessings of good health and longevity. This physical interaction with the statue makes the experience highly participatory, drawing pilgrims and visitors alike.
Fudō Myō-ō Statue © O. Robert
Organization and Features of the Temple Grounds
Upon entering Nanzo-in Temple, visitors first encounter the temple gate, which leads to a long pathway flanked by numerous smaller shrines, statues, and Buddhist figures, including Fudō Myō-ō (photo above), one of the Five Wisdom Kings in esoteric Buddhism. Along the way, there are various statues of Jizo, the guardian of children and travelers, and Kannon, the Bodhisattva of compassion. Read my article about the Jizo here.
Jizo Statues © O. Robert
Several other noteworthy features within the temple grounds include:
- The Rakan: This is a collection of 500 stone statues of arhats (disciples of Buddha who have attained enlightenment). These statues are often unique and bear different facial expressions and postures. Pilgrims stop to pray at each one, adding to the spiritual intensity of the visit. Read my article about the Rakan here.
Collection of Rakan | Fine Art Prints © O. Robert (Available for purchase here)
- The Enmusubi Kannon: This shrine is dedicated to Kannon as the deity of marriage and relationships. Visitors come here to pray for love, partnership, and family blessings.
- The Bell of Peace: A large bell located near the reclining Buddha, which visitors are encouraged to ring to send prayers for peace around the world. This feature ties into the temple’s broader dedication to promoting global harmony.
The temple grounds are beautifully landscaped, featuring Japanese gardens, streams, and bridges. The natural setting enhances the temple's atmosphere of tranquility, inviting meditation and reflection. Seasonal beauty also plays a key role in the appeal of Nanzo-in. Cherry blossoms in spring and the vibrant maple leaves of autumn create stunning backdrops for the temple's structures.
© O. Robert
Annual Events
Nanzo-in Temple is an active religious site, hosting several significant annual events. One of the most important is the Kobo Daishi Grand Festival, held in late March, which commemorates Kukai’s legacy.
The festival is a major occasion for followers to express gratitude for his teachings and legacy.
The event typically includes rituals, prayers, and offerings at the temple, as well as parades, chants, and blessings. Pilgrims and visitors gather to participate in the religious ceremonies, which aim to seek spiritual guidance, protection, and blessings. This festival highlights Kobo Daishi’s influence on Japanese Buddhism and provides an opportunity for communal worship and reflection.
Like for many other temples, another major event is the Obon Festival in August, during which families come to pay respects to their ancestors, and prayers are offered for the souls of the departed.
Nanzo-in and Photography
Nanzo-in Temple, with its profound spiritual significance and awe-inspiring architecture, serves as a timeless subject for black and white photography. The monochromatic medium naturally accentuates the essence of the temple to reveal the raw interplay of light, shadow, and form.
The Reclining Buddha, with its serene expression and monumental scale, offers a striking juxtaposition between human craftsmanship and the enduring stillness of nature. In black and white photography, this contrast is further magnified, allowing the photographer to capture not just the physical details but the philosophical quietude of the scene.
The meditative atmosphere of the temple, enhanced by its intricate statues, flowing streams, and centuries-old rituals, invites the photographer to explore themes of impermanence, tranquility, and enlightenment. The absence of color emphasizes the temple’s symbolic representation of the transient nature of life, mirrored in the Nehanzo Buddha’s passage into nirvana.
The interplay of soft light filtering through temple trees or the dynamic textures of the weathered stone statues reveal hidden layers of emotion and spirituality. Through this lens, Nanzo-in becomes not just a religious site, but a canvas for exploring timeless human experiences. Approached with respect, the temple offers endless opportunities for capturing both minimalist beauty and the intangible essence of peace that lies at the heart of Buddhist philosophy.
© O. Robert
Accessibility and Visitor Information
Nanzo-in Temple is highly accessible from Fukuoka City, making it a popular day-trip destination for both domestic and international visitors. The temple is located just a short walk from Kidonanzoin-mae Station on the Sasaguri Line, and there are clear signs guiding visitors to the temple.
There is no admission fee to enter the temple grounds, although donations are appreciated, especially for those who wish to participate in rituals such as ringing the Bell of Peace or offering prayers at the shrines. The temple provides an informative and welcoming experience, offering English-language materials and guides for international tourists, making it an easy visit for those unfamiliar with Japanese customs.
Nanzo-in Temple address:
1035 Sasaguri, Kasuya District,
Fukuoka 811-2405
Japan
Open everyday from 9am to 4:30pm
Tel: +81929477195
