Japan: Nagoya Castle, Under the Protection of the Golden Dolphins
Updated: Aug 7
Nestled in the heart of Aichi Prefecture, Nagoya Castle stands as an iconic symbol of Japanese history and culture. This remarkable estate from the Edo period marks an era where military strategy and architectural art fused into a majestic expression of power and aesthetics.
© O. Robert
With its iconic golden sculptures watching over from its roof, the castle tells stories of a bygone era while remaining deeply rooted in the present. The events and festivals held there throughout the year, along with ongoing preservation and restoration efforts, attest to its unwavering place in the hearts of the Japanese.
Nagoya Castle is often nicknamed "Kinshachi Yagura" or simply "Kinshachi," in reference to the two statues of "golden dolphins" (shachihoko) that adorn the roof of its main keep. These mythological creatures, covered in gold, are considered protectors of the castle. They symbolize both the wealth and power of the clan that ruled over Nagoya (see below).
For photographers, Nagoya Castle offers an ideal backdrop to capture the essence of timelessness and tranquility that resonates through the ages. Here is a look back at its history, characteristics, and the festivals that constitute the soul of this magnificent ensemble of traditional buildings.
History and Evolution
The construction of the castle was ordered by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, to serve as a strategic pivot in securing the Tokai region (see below). This allowed him to establish effective control over central and western Japan.
Here are some key events in the castle's history:
Start of Construction: The castle was built in 1610 on the ruins of the former "Castle of Oda Nobuhide." The main construction was completed in 1612, although additions and modifications continued thereafter.
The Castle of Oda Nobuhide refers to a fortress associated with Oda Nobuhide, a Japanese warlord (daimyo) of the 16th century and the father of the famous Oda Nobunaga, who played a crucial role in the unification of Japan during the Sengoku period. Nobuhide was the head of the Oda clan, a powerful feudal family in the province of Owari (now Aichi Prefecture), and he used this castle-fortress as a strategic base for his military and political operations.
Therefore, it is important to note that the term "Castle of Oda Nobuhide" does not refer to a specific castle widely recognized in Japanese history or culture under that name. Instead, Oda Nobuhide would have operated from several fortresses in the Owari region, notably Kiyosu Castle, which served as an important center for the Oda clan before Nobunaga (Nobuhide's son) moved his seat to Gifu Castle (then called Inabayama Castle) and later to Azuchi Castle, marking key stages in his effort to unify Japan.
Kiyosu Castle, in particular, is often associated with Nobuhide and the rise of the Oda clan, serving as the site for significant events in the clan's history and as a symbol of their power in the region. Over time, the castles linked to Oda Nobunaga and his father have become subjects of historical and cultural interest, testifying to the rise of the Oda clan and their impact on Japanese history.
Edo Period (1603-1868): Nagoya Castle served as the residence of one of the major branches of the Tokugawa clan, the Owari Tokugawa, throughout the Edo period. It was a major political and administrative center in the region.
Destruction in 1945: Nagoya Castle was severely damaged by American air raids during World War II in May 1945. Most of the buildings, including the main keeps, were destroyed.
Post-War Reconstruction: The main tower of the castle was rebuilt in 1959 using reinforced concrete. This reconstruction aimed to restore a symbol of pride and culture for the city of Nagoya and Japan.
Restoration Projects: Since the early 2000s, efforts have been underway to restore Nagoya Castle to its original Edo period state, using traditional materials and techniques. A major restoration project for the main keep was launched, with the goal of reconstructing certain parts of the castle in wood, as they were originally.
Nagoya Castle remains a valuable historical and cultural site. Its lengthy reconstruction and the importance of its preservation testify to Japan's commitment to maintaining and celebrating its historical heritage.
The Castle during its renovation (2011). © O. Robert
Characteristics of Nagoya Castle
With its impressive architecture and expansive outdoor spaces, Nagoya Castle is a remarkable example of Edo period castle architecture. Integrating robust defensive aspects while emphasizing beauty and harmony with nature, Nagoya Castle embodies the ingenuity and elegance of traditional Japanese architecture.
Here is an overview of its main architectural features, buildings, layout, and outdoor spaces:
Donjons: The castle complex is dominated by the main donjon (Tenshu) and the secondary donjon (Hitsujisaru Yagura), both reconstructed in concrete in 1959. The interior of the main donjon now serves as a museum, showcasing the history and culture of the castle and the region. The main donjon is particularly notable for its golden ornaments on the roof, which have become iconic symbols of Nagoya.
Kinshachi: The term "Kinshachi" (金鯱) consists of two characters: "kin" (金), meaning "gold," and "shachi" (鯱), referring to a mythological creature resembling a fish or a dolphin. The Kinshachi are depicted as two statues or sculptures, also known as "shachihoko."
The kinshachi are golden shachihoko-shaped ornaments traditionally placed at the two ends of the main keep's roof. They are believed to protect against fires, with the gold reflecting sunlight to ward off evil spirits and the mythical creature supposedly spouting water to extinguish flames.
The kinshachi of Nagoya Castle are among the most famous and symbolic examples of these ornaments, representing the wealth and power of the clan that ruled the region.
© O. Robert
Honmaru Palace: Originally, Honmaru Palace was the main residence and administrative center of the castle lord. Although it was destroyed during World War II, part of it was faithfully reconstructed in 2018 using traditional techniques and materials, offering a valuable glimpse into high-ranking residential Japanese architecture of the Edo period.
Defense Circles: The castle was designed with multiple circles of defense, including moats, stone walls, and fortified gates, organized to maximize protection against attackers. These defensive structures were both practical and aesthetic, reflecting the power and wealth of the castle lord.
Paths and Gates: The castle had several gates, including the main gate (Otemon), which led to Honmaru Palace. The pathways through the castle were designed to disorient attackers and provide strategic advantages to defenders.
Gardens: Nagoya Castle is renowned for its beautifully maintained gardens designed in the purest Japanese tradition. They provide a space of tranquility and natural beauty for visitors. These gardens were designed to reflect the seasons, making them a remarkable example of the Japanese art of gardening.
Moats: The moats surrounding the castle played a crucial role in the defense of the complex. They also add to the overall aesthetics of the site, reflecting the majesty of the castle and creating a distinct separation from the surrounding modern city.
Position Among Other Castles in Japan
Nagoya Castle holds a prominent place among Japanese castles, both for its historical significance and its distinctive architecture. Although it is not part of Japan's "Three Great Castles", Himeji, Kumamoto, and Matsumoto, it is considered one of the most important castles in the country due to its role in the history of the Tokugawa shogunate and its impact on the Tokai region.
The Tokai region is a geographical area located in the central part of Japan's main island, Honshu. This region plays a significant role in Japan's economy, history, and culture. It comprises four prefectures: Aichi, Gifu, Mie, and Shizuoka. It is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the east and includes the northern part of the Ise Peninsula and the Japanese Alps to the north.
The construction of Nagoya Castle aimed to secure the Tokaido road, the major route connecting Edo (now Tokyo) to Kyoto. This strategic position enhances its importance among Japanese castles as a defensive stronghold and administrative center.
© O. Robert
Compared to Japan's "Three Great Castles," Nagoya Castle is less distinguished by its structural integrity (since the main keep was rebuilt in concrete) and more by its rich historical context and restoration efforts. However, it is favorably compared to other significant castles for its historical role and architecture.
Although it is not listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, unlike Himeji Castle, Nagoya Castle is a designated national historic site, recognized for its cultural and historical value in Japan.
Festivals and Events
From my perspective, and unlike other castles, Nagoya Castle is not particularly notable for its festivals. However, it serves as the backdrop for several events throughout the year.
Here are some major events and festivals associated with Nagoya Castle that I have observed:
Nagoya Festival (Nagoya Matsuri)
Held annually in October, the Nagoya Matsuri is one of the city's largest festivals, featuring parades, samurai performances, traditional dances, and more. Important historical figures such as Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu are depicted in the parades, highlighting the historical significance of the castle and its lords in Nagoya's history.
Castle Illuminations
In winter, around December and January, the castle is illuminated with thousands of lights and lanterns, creating a magical spectacle that attracts visitors during the winter season. This event provides a spectacular view of the castle at night, which is particularly interesting for photography.
Hanami
As with other locations across the country, during the cherry blossom season from late March to early April, the tradition of hanami is celebrated at Nagoya Castle. The park, with its many cherry trees, becomes a favored spot for picnicking and enjoying the fleeting beauty of the sakura.
Flea Market
Held several times a year, this flea market attracts vendors offering a range of items, from antiques to second-hand goods. It provides visitors with the opportunity to discover hidden treasures while enjoying the historic atmosphere of the castle.
Events and Exhibitions
Throughout the year, Nagoya Castle also hosts various events, exhibitions, and educational workshops that highlight its history and Japanese art. These events vary each year and are designed to enrich the visitor experience.
© O. Robert
The Final Word
With its centuries-old history and majestic architecture, Nagoya Castle stands not only as a testament to the past but also as a muse for the present, particularly in the realm of photography.
Through the lens, the clean lines of its architecture become symbols of a bygone era while capturing the timeless essence of Japanese culture. The photographic interest in the castle lies in its ability to merge historical grandeur with the fleeting beauty of nature. It thus provides a fertile ground for contemplation and artistic creation.
The events and festivals that animate its ancestral walls throughout the year add layers of vibrancy and authenticity. They allow photographers to capture the dynamic interplay between the past and the present.
Nagoya Castle, in its stoic permanence, invites reflection on change. For the photographer, capturing this castle means capturing a moment of eternity, a quest for what remains unchanging despite the relentless passage of time. Thus, Nagoya Castle reveals itself not only as a subject of aesthetic beauty but also as a space for meditation on the transient nature of our existence.
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