Japan: Itsukushima Jinja, the Shrine of the Three Deities
Updated: Oct 31
Itsukushima Shrine is located on the sacred island of Itsukushima (commonly referred to as Miyajima) in Hiroshima Prefecture. As part of the "Three Views of Japan", it is one of the most famous Shinto shrines and an iconic site, internationally known for its “floating” torii gate. Its history is spanning centuries and blending religious significance with legends and war periods.
© O. Robert
Itsukushima Shrine is a symbol of Japan's cultural and spiritual identity, embodying centuries of religious tradition, architectural innovation, and natural beauty. Its integration into the landscape, blending the physical and spiritual, continues to attract millions of visitors each year who come to admire its serene beauty and connect with its profound heritage.
Origines and History of Itsukushima Jinja
The origins of Itsukushima Shrine (officially Itsukushima Jinja) date back to 593 during the Asuka Period (538-710), when it is believed to have been founded by Saeki no Kuramoto, a member of the influential Saeki clan.
The shrine is dedicated to three deities, born where Amaterasu Ōmikami (the goddess of the sun) and her brother Susanoo-no-Mikoto (the Shinto god of storms and the sea) made a pledge, using gems. These "daughters", named Ichikishimahime-no-Mikoto, Tagorihime-no-Mikoto, and Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto are worshipped as deities of the sea, storms, and navigation. Their association with maritime protection was crucial in Japan's island-based culture, and thus, the shrine became a site of great reverence for sailors and merchants.
© O. Robert
Heian Period (794-1185)
During the Heian Period (794-1185), Itsukushima Shrine gained further prominence under the patronage of the powerful Taira clan, especially Taira no Kiyomori, a major figure in Japan's military and political landscape. Kiyomori's deep veneration for the shrine led him to reconstruct it in 1168 in its iconic form, floating over the water. This reconstruction was a massive undertaking and is seen as an expression of the Taira clan’s piety and wealth.
The Genji (Minamoto) Clan
After the fall of the Taira clan in 1185, following the defeat at the hands of the Minamoto (Genji) clan in the Genpei War, Itsukushima Shrine’s history continued under the patronage of successive ruling families, shoguns, and even emperors.
Is it "Minamoto" or "Genji" Clan?
The terms "Minamoto" and "Genji" refer to the same clan but from different perspectives:
Minamoto (源) is the family name. The Minamoto clan was one of the four great clans in ancient Japan, alongside the Fujiwara, Taira, and Tachibana.
Genji (源氏) is the Sino-Japanese reading of the characters for "Minamoto". The "ji" (氏) in Genji means "clan" or "family." So, "Genji" literally translates to "the clan of Minamoto."
The Minamoto clan, led by Minamoto no Yoritomo, established the Kamakura shogunate (1185-1333), Japan’s first military government. Although the Minamoto did not rebuild or expand the shrine in the same way the Taira had, they acknowledged its significance as a site of spiritual and maritime importance, continuing to view it as a protector shrine for seafarers.
Muromachi Period (1336-1573)
During the Muromachi Period, which saw the establishment of the Ashikaga shogunate, the shrine continued to receive attention from the ruling elite. This period was also marked by complex political dynamics. But religious institutions like Itsukushima Shrine remained crucial spiritual centers, serving as places of pilgrimage and protection for both the ruling military class and commoners.
The Ashikaga shoguns, especially Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (1358-1408), who revitalized Kyoto and its religious institutions, recognized the value of supporting major shrines and temples across Japan, including Itsukushima.
During the Muromachi Period, the Ouchi clan, based in the western provinces of Japan and powerful in the Chūgoku region (where Itsukushima is located), also became important patrons of Itsukushima Shrine. The Ouchi were notable maritime traders who engaged in diplomacy and trade with Korea and China, and as such, they placed significant emphasis on the shrine’s maritime deities.
© O. Robert
Sengoku Period (1467-1600) and the Battle of Miyajima
The Sengoku Period (included in Muromachi Period) is also known as the Warring States Period. It brought immense instability to Japan as regional daimyo (feudal lords) fought for control. Itsukushima Shrine was not immune to the turmoil of this period, but it played a critical role in one of the most famous battles of the time: the Battle of Miyajima in 1555.
Mōri Motonari, a powerful daimyo and strategist in the Chūgoku region, famously used Itsukushima Shrine as a key element of his plan during the battle against Sue Harukata, a rebel lord from the Ouchi clan. In an audacious and well-planned maneuver, Mōri invited Sue’s forces to occupy the island of Itsukushima, thus luring them into a trap.
Mōri then launched a surprise attack by sea and utterly defeated Sue’s army. This victory solidified Mōri Motonari’s power in the region and demonstrated the strategic importance of Itsukushima Island, not only as a sacred site but also as a key military asset.
Muromachi to Edo Period
With the end of the Sengoku Period and the establishment of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1603 by Tokugawa Ieyasu, Japan entered a long period of peace and stability. During the Edo Period (1603-1868), Itsukushima Shrine enjoyed continued patronage from the Tokugawa shoguns, local daimyo, and the imperial family.
Ieyasu himself, like many shoguns before him, understood the political and spiritual power of prominent religious sites. While the Tokugawa regime focused primarily on Edo (modern-day Tokyo) and its surrounding areas, the protection and support of Itsukushima Shrine continued, cementing its role in the nation’s religious landscape.
© O. Robert
Meiji Restoration (1868)
The shrine and the island of Itsukushima have long been associated with both Shinto and Buddhist practices. Though, the Meiji Restoration led to the formal separation of Shinto and Buddhism as part of state-sponsored religious reforms. A policy named "Shinbutsu bunri". During this time, Buddhist elements were removed from the shrine, and its status as a purely Shinto site was reinforced.
Throughout history, Itsukushima Shrine has survived various challenges, including natural disasters. However, it has undergone numerous restorations and reconstructions, preserving its classical Heian Period architecture. In 1996, the shrine was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, cementing its significance not only in Japan but globally as a site of outstanding cultural importance.
Architecture of Itsukushima Jinja
The shrine’s architectural layout, with its grand torii gate, pier-like structures, and delicate vermilion-lacquered buildings, was intended to impress both the gods and the visitors. Kiyomori’s goal was to create a place of beauty that would be pleasing to the kami (spirits) and reflect the grandeur of his clan.
Consequently, one of the unique aspects of the shrine is its construction on the water. During high tide, the shrine appears to float on the Seto Inland Sea. This design was chosen because the island of Itsukushima itself is considered so sacred that common people were historically not allowed to set foot on it. The waters surrounding the shrine created a natural barrier, allowing visitors to experience the island's divinity without defiling it. This remains an important element of its spiritual and cultural heritage.
Why is Itsukushima Shrine called "Jinja" and not "Taisha", "Gū" or "Jingu" like other important shrines?
If you want to know more about the hierarchy of the Shinto Shrines, their spiritual significance and their ranking, you can read my dedicated article here.
© O. Robert
The entire complex is carefully integrated with the natural landscape, reflecting Shinto beliefs that nature itself is sacred. The floating appearance of the buildings is one of its most distinguishing features, and it creates a serene, otherworldly experience for visitors. Though, the shrine complex is vast and consists of multiple structures that are intricately connected. Here are the main parts of the Itsukushima Shrine complex:
1. The Floating Torii Gate
A symbol of the shrine, this massive gate stands in the waters of the Seto Inland Sea and appears to float during high tide. It serves as a ceremonial entrance to the sacred island. The current torii, standing since 1875, is made of camphor wood and stands about 16 meters tall. Read my dedicated article here to know more about this iconic symbol (photo hereunder).
2. Main Shrine (Honsha)
The central structure of Itsukushima Shrine, dedicated to three Shinto deities: Ichikishimahime, Tagitsuhime, and Tagorihime (mentioned above). The main hall is built on stilts over the tidal flats, allowing it to appear as if floating during high tide. It reflects the Shinden-zukuri style, which was influenced by aristocratic Heian-era architecture.
3. Heiden (Hall of Offerings)
This hall is where offerings to the gods are made. It connects the main shrine to other parts of the complex. Like other parts of the shrine, it stands on stilts and has an open, spacious design.
4. Haiden (Prayer Hall)
This hall is used for ceremonial prayers and rituals by worshippers. It is situated in front of the Main Shrine and offers a space for devotees to pray before proceeding to the inner sanctuary.
5. Honden (Main Sanctuary)
This is the innermost and most sacred part of the shrine, housing the kami (Shinto deities) that are worshipped at Itsukushima. Only priests are allowed to enter the Honden. It is usually closed to the public but can be viewed from the outside.
6. Kaguraden (Hall of Sacred Dance)
This building is used for performances of traditional Shinto ceremonial dances (Kagura), which are performed to honor the gods. The Kaguraden features a stage that extends over the water, providing a dramatic backdrop.
7. Noh Stage
Itsukushima Shrine has its own stage for Noh, a classical Japanese theater form. Noh performances, like Kagura, have deep spiritual significance and are often held during festivals.
8. Sessha Marodo Shrine
A smaller auxiliary shrine within the complex, dedicated to deities associated with visitors and travelers. The Sessha Marodo Shrine is closely linked to the main shrine but focuses on additional guardian deities.
9. Five-Storied Pagoda (Gojū-no-tō)
Though technically not part of the shrine complex, this nearby pagoda is often associated with it. The pagoda is a Buddhist structure, symbolizing the fusion of Shintoism and Buddhism in Japan over the centuries. Standing 27 meters high, it combines traditional Japanese and Chinese architectural elements.
10. Treasure House (Homotsukan)
The treasure house holds important artifacts, including religious and cultural objects, related to the shrine's history. It displays important items like historical scrolls, ceremonial robes, and ancient instruments.
11. Paths and Bridges
The shrine is interconnected by corridors, paths, and bridges, allowing visitors to walk through the various buildings while being above the water. This layout reflects the shrine's integration with the sea and the natural surroundings. An elegant arched bridge that adds to the beauty of the shrine, though it is not usually accessible to the public.
Itsukushima Grand Torii | Fine Art Print © O. Robert (Available for purchase here)
The Grand Torii of Itsukushima Jinja
Torii gates indicate the entrance to a sacred space, in this case, the area dedicated to the deities of the sea and storms, whom the shrine honors. The torii at Itsukushima is particularly significant because of its placement in the sea, giving it a unique appearance that changes with the tides (photo above). Read my article dedicated to the torii and their spiritual significance here.
The Grand Torii of Itsukushima Shrine is one of Japan’s most iconic symbols and one of the most famous torii gates in the country. Standing in the sea, about 200 meters offshore, it is also one of the most photographed sites of Japan.
This “floating” torii, has garnered international fame due to its striking appearance, spiritual significance, and integration with the natural surroundings. It has existed in various forms for centuries, though the current torii, made of camphor wood, was erected in 1875. Its design follows a tradition dating back centuries.
Connection between Itsukushima Shrine and Daisho-in Temple
Daisho-in is a Buddhist Temple established in 806 by the revered monk Kōbō Daishi, also known as Kūkai, the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan. Its history is closely linked to Itsukushima Shrine through their historical and spiritual significance on Miyajima Island.
While Itsukushima Shrine is a prominent Shinto site dedicated to deities associated with maritime safety, Daisho-in Temple is a revered Shingon Buddhist temple located at the base of Mount Misen, the island's sacred mountain.
Daisho-in Temple. © O. Robert
The connection between the two reflects Japan’s historical syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism. For centuries, these two religious traditions coexisted, with Daisho-in serving as a guardian temple for Itsukushima Shrine. The temple’s monks traditionally played a role in maintaining the island's sacred status, with rituals performed on Mount Misen for protection, a phenomenon known as "Shinbutsu shūgō"
Moreover, both sites are integral to the island's pilgrimage routes, combining spiritual reverence for nature and religious devotion. This connection highlights the island’s unique religious landscape, where Shintoism and Buddhism have been intertwined for centuries until the Meiji government enforced the separation of Shinto and Buddhism, known as "Shinbutsu bunri".
Should you want to know more about Daisho-in, its origins, its history, and main features, you can read my complete article here.
Main Festivals and Events at Itsukushima Jinja
Itsukushima Shrine hosts a number of important festivals and events throughout the year, many of which have been celebrated for centuries and are deeply connected to Shinto traditions. The festivals often reflect the shrine’s spiritual connection to the sea and the gods of navigation and storms. Here are some of the main ones:
1. Kangen-sai (観覧祭)
Typically held on the 15th day of the 6th month of the lunar calendar (July or August in the modern calendar). Kangen-sai is the largest and most important festival at Itsukushima Shrine. It dates back to the Heian Period (794-1185) and involves a ceremonial procession of boats that sail around the island, carrying shrine priests and musicians who perform kangen, a form of traditional court music.
2. Toka-sai (桃花祭)
Toka-sai, or the Peach Blossom Festival, is an ancient spring festival that celebrates the changing of the seasons. It is held on April 15th to pray for peace, prosperity, and good fortune for the year ahead. The festival marks the blooming of peach blossoms, which are symbolic of renewal, growth, and beauty in Japanese culture.
© O. Robert
3. Tamatori-sai (玉取祭)
This festival is held annually on the first Sunday in July.
Tamatori-sai, or the Jewel-Grabbing Festival, is a lively event in which participants dive into the sea to retrieve a sacred jewel or ball (representing good fortune) that has been cast into the water by a priest. The person who successfully grabs the jewel is believed to receive blessings of good luck for the year.
4. Mizu Matsuri (水祭り)
Mizu Matsuri, or the Water Festival, is held in mid-July to pray for ample rain and good harvests, a crucial concern in agricultural Japan. Itsukushima Shrine’s connection to the sea and water makes it a fitting location for these rituals.
© O. Robert
5. Chinka-sai (鎮火祭)
Chinka-sai is a fire prevention festival held at the end of the year, on December 31st, to ward off fire-related disasters in the coming year. Fire is both a destructive and purifying force in Shinto, and this festival is meant to prevent the destructive aspects of fire from affecting homes and businesses.
6. Setsubun (節分)
This event is held on February 3rd, the day before the beginning of spring according to the lunar calendar. Setsubun is a traditional Japanese festival celebrated throughout the country to drive away evil spirits and bring in good fortune for the new season. People are throwing beans while chanting "Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!" ("Demons out! Luck in!")
7. Miyajima Water Fireworks Festival
This event is held late August (the exact date varies yearly).
While not a religious festival, the Miyajima Water Fireworks Festival is one of the most spectacular summer events associated with Itsukushima Shrine. Though primarily a visual spectacle, the festival coincides with the end of summer, symbolizing a time of transition and renewal. The fireworks are believed to drive away evil spirits and mark the closing of the summer festival season.
8. Bugaku Performances (舞楽)
Bugaku is an ancient form of traditional Japanese court dance accompanied by "Gagaku" (court music). Itsukushima Shrine preserves this art form, and performances are held in front of the main hall during major festivals. Bugaku is performed on various occasions throughout the year, especially during major festivals like Toka-sai and Kangen-sai.
© O. Robert
Nihon Sankei, The Three Views of Japan
To complete the long list of the most important features of Itsukushima Shrine, and to be as thorough as possible, I will also mention that this shrine is part of the Nihon Sankei, or the "Three Views of Japan". This selection can be debated, and I would gladly be among those who do not necessarily agree with this choice.
Nevertheless, these three views are part of the country's history and have been recognized for many centuries and represent a perfect blend of natural scenery, cultural history, and spiritual significance. They continue to be major tourist destinations, symbolizing Japan's deep connection to its natural environment and its long tradition of aesthetic reverence.
So, Itsukushima island and shrine are part of the Nihon Sankei which were selected in the 17th century by the scholar Hayashi Gahō as the most scenic and culturally significant places in Japan.
My library: JAPAN - Beautiful Landscapes - Japan's Soul | Throughout the four seasons you can see Japan's many displays of beauty: pink-tinged cherry blossoms, blue skies and lush greenery, fiery autumn leaves, and a quiet, silvery snowscapes. This book reproduces the beauty of Japanese landscapes and traditions with large photographs and detailed explanations.
These Three Views of Japan are:
Amanohashidate in Kyoto Prefecture for the natural beauty of a sandbar connecting land and sea, often described in terms of divine or mythological symbolism.
Matsushima in Miyagi Prefecture for the picturesque quality of its many islands, which seem to float serenely in the bay, inspiring countless artistic works.
Itsukushima Island in Hiroshima Prefecture for the harmony between man-made structures (Itsukushima Shrine) and nature (the sea and island).
© O. Robert
Itsukushima Shrine and Photography
The connection between Itsukushima Shrine, its island, and monochrome photography invites a reflection on the interplay of nature, spirituality, and minimalism. The shrine, with its iconic floating torii framed by the sea and mountains, embodies Shinto’s reverence for nature.
The island, sacred and untouched by everyday life for centuries, becomes a physical manifestation of purity and the divine. In this setting, monochrome photography transcends the mere act of capturing an image. It becomes a meditation on essence, stripping away distraction to reveal form, texture, and light.
Monochrome photography valorizes simplicity and respect. It mirrors the Shinto concept of kannagara, which means to live in accordance with nature’s flow. In black and white, the vibrant reds of the shrine and the deep greens of the island's forest surrender to shades of gray.
What remains is the core: the contrast between human-made structures and the natural world. Just as the shrine exists in harmony with its environment, monochrome photography seeks harmony between light and shadow, revealing a deeper truth beneath the surface.
