Japan: Inuyama Castle, the White Emperor and his Donjon
Updated: Aug 9
Inuyama Castle, located in Aichi Prefecture, is one of the oldest existing Japanese castles. It is renowned for its original donjon dating back to the Azuchi-Momoyama period. Its history is rich with events, important figures, and transitional periods. Situated atop a wooded hill, it makes for an interesting photographic subject.
Inuyama Castle is a cornerstone of Japanese history, reflecting architectural evolutions, military conflicts, and political transitions over the centuries.
A Fitting Nickname
Inuyama Castle is often nicknamed "Hakutei-jō" (白帝城), which translates to "the White Emperor's Castle." This term refers to an ideal sovereign figure, evoking an image of purity, nobility, and wisdom. Associating these qualities with the castle enhances its symbolic status and cultural significance in Japan.
However, this nickname seems to derive from the castle's distinctive appearance, particularly its main donjon, which is painted white. This gives it an elegant and distinguished look on its promontory overlooking the Kiso River. The white color contrasts with the darker tones of the surrounding nature and the gray stone walls. Thanks to this contrast, the castle is particularly striking under sunlight.
It's important to note that this nickname is not universally recognized and may be less commonly used than official or more standard descriptive names. Castle nicknames in Japan can vary depending on regions, local traditions, and historical interpretations.
A Dogs' Story
In Japanese culture, dogs ("inu" in Japanese) have often been revered for their loyalty and courage. There are many stories and legends throughout Japan featuring dogs. However, these themes are not specifically related to Inuyama Castle directly.
The connection between Inuyama Castle and dogs primarily stems from the etymology of the castle's and the city's name. Inuyama can be literally translated as "Dog Mountain." However, this name does not directly reflect a specific story or relationship with dogs in terms of historical events or legends. The name is more indicative of the region and its linguistic heritage.
Nevertheless, the site features several edifices dedicated to dogs or rather to dog owners who wish to honor their lost pets. On Inuyama Hill and in close proximity to the castle, one can find a shrine dedicated to dogs and shops selling various items such as lucky charm medals.
© O. Robert
History and Evolution
- Construction Period: The main donjon of the castle was built in 1537 under the order of Oda Nobuyasu, the grand-uncle of Oda Nobunaga, one of the unifiers of Japan in the 16th century. This places its construction at the end of the Sengoku period, a time of civil war, social upheaval, and military conflicts.
- Sengoku Period (mid-15th century to the end of the 16th century): The castle played a strategic role in local power struggles between warlords (daimyos).
- 1584: The castle was involved in the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute, where Tokugawa Ieyasu confronted Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
- Edo Period (1603-1868): After the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 and the establishment of the Tokugawa shogunate, the castle came under the control of various daimyos loyal to the shogunate.
- 19th Century: In the Meiji era, with the abolition of the feudal system, the castle lost its military function and fell into disrepair.
- 1965: The donjon of Inuyama Castle was designated a National Treasure, highlighting its historical and cultural importance.
- 2004: Management of the castle was transferred from a private foundation to a local public organization to better preserve and restore the site.
Renovation and Preservation
Inuyama Castle has undergone several restorations over the centuries to preserve its historical structure and appearance. Although the castle retains its original donjon, restoration efforts have been necessary to maintain the building's integrity against damage from time, natural disasters, and climate changes.
Notable periods of major renovations include:
- Meiji Era: In the late 19th century, the castle was partially restored. This period marked Japan's transition to modernization and the abandonment of its feudal system. Many castles were neglected or destroyed, but Inuyama benefited from significant restoration work. This allowed it to survive through the centuries and achieve its designation as a National Treasure.
- 20th Century: The castle underwent several restoration projects to repair and preserve the wooden structures and fortifications. These efforts included repairing the donjon, restoring the stone walls, and maintaining auxiliary buildings.
- Shōwa Era: A major restoration took place during the Shōwa era (1926-1989), where significant efforts were made to restore the castle to its original state, using traditional techniques and materials as much as possible.
- 21st Century: More recently, restoration work has continued to ensure the preservation of the castle against modern challenges, including protection from earthquakes and weathering. These efforts aim to maintain the historical authenticity of the castle while ensuring its safety and stability.
These restorations are crucial not only for preserving Japan's cultural and historical heritage but also for allowing future generations to understand and appreciate the architecture and history of their country. They demonstrate Japan's commitment to preserving its historical sites while balancing the needs of modernity.
Features of Inuyama Castle
Inuyama Castle is renowned for its unique characteristics that distinguish it among Japanese castles. Here are some of its most notable features:
- Original Donjon: Inuyama Castle is one of the few castles in Japan to retain its original donjon (Tenshu) from the Azuchi-Momoyama period (late 16th century), making it one of the oldest existing wooden donjons in the country.
- Wooden Construction: The castle's architecture showcases expert use of wood, with traditional construction techniques that have allowed the building to survive through the centuries.
- Defensive Features: Like many Japanese castles, it was equipped for defense, with arrow slits (meurtrières), stone-dropping holes (ishi-otoshi), and dry-stacked stone walls to protect its occupants from attackers.
- Strategic View: Situated on a hill by the Kiso River, the castle offers a strategic and panoramic view of the surroundings, which was crucial for surveillance and defense during periods of conflict.
- Preserved Heritage: The castle is an exceptional example of the preservation of Japanese architectural heritage, providing visitors with a glimpse into Japanese feudal architecture and life.
Position Among Other Castles in Japan
Inuyama Castle stands out among Japanese castles due to its antiquity, architectural authenticity, and its strategic and picturesque location. These characteristics make it an invaluable site for Japanese history and culture, representing a direct link to Japan's feudal past.
Designated as a National Treasure in 1952, it shares this honor with only 4 other castles: Himeji, Matsue, Hikone, and Matsumoto. For more information on these National Treasure castles, read my dedicated articles:
Unlike many other Japanese castles that have been rebuilt in concrete after being destroyed by natural disasters or war, Inuyama Castle has preserved its original wooden donjon. As such, it remains a major cultural and tourist attraction in the country. Depending on the season, you may need to expect long waits if you wish to visit the interior. In my opinion, visiting the interior is not essential; it is far preferable to visit the interior of castles like Himeji (see my dedicated article).
View of Kiso River and Gifu Prefecture from the top of the main donjon. © O. Robert
Inuyama Castle remains one of the most interesting subjects for landscape photography due to its unique and open location, its small size which enhances the sense of distance, and its presence by the Kiso River.
Many hotels and ryokan are situated along the river, on the opposite side of the castle, in Gifu Prefecture. These make for wonderful places to stay for a few nights. The region is also famous for its hot springs, which will appeal to enthusiasts. Additionally, some high-end hotels (see photo on the right below) offer river cruises to their guests, providing a delightful experience.
Despite its increasingly marked tourist appeal, Inuyama remains a tranquil town where photographers seeking solitude and meditation through imagery will find ample satisfaction.
© O. Robert
Festivals and Events
Inuyama Castle and its surroundings host several festivals and events throughout the year, reflecting the richness of Japanese culture and traditions. Here are some notable events associated with the castle:
Inuyama Matsuri
- Period: Held on the first weekend of April.
The Inuyama Matsuri is famous for its parade of decorative floats (Yatai), which are considered important cultural assets of Japan. The highlight of the festival is when these floats, illuminated by lanterns at night, parade through the city. The festival also features traditional Karakuri puppet demonstrations, a unique aspect of the event.
Momotaro Matsuri
- Period: Takes place in the summer, usually in August.
This festival includes a spectacular fireworks display over the Kiso River. It is named after Momotaro, a famous character from Japanese folklore, and attracts visitors with its picturesque views combined with the pyrotechnic performance.
Autumn Festival
- Period: Held in October or November.
This festival celebrates the autumn season, often featuring exhibitions of autumn leaves (Koyo) where visitors can enjoy the changing colors of nature. It may also include night-time tours of the castle, where special lighting enhances its beauty.
New Year (Shogatsu)
- Period: Celebrated from January 1 to 3.
Japanese New Year festivities include visits to the castle and its surroundings, where visitors can participate in traditions such as the first sunrise of the year (Hatsuhinode) and the first visit to a shrine or temple (Hatsumode). It is a time to welcome the new year with hope and joy.
Exhibitions and Workshops
Throughout the year, the castle hosts various exhibitions related to its history and Japanese culture, as well as workshops on traditional themes such as the tea ceremony or ikebana.
These festivals and events offer visitors a unique opportunity to experience traditional and contemporary Japanese culture while enjoying the historic and natural setting of Inuyama Castle. They also contribute to the vitality of the local community and attract tourists from Japan and around the world.
View on Kiso River. © O. Robert
The Final Word
Inuyama Castle, a historical gem of Japan, embodies the sublime fusion of architectural artistry and natural majesty. Its ancient donjon, a silent witness to the centuries, stands with elegance, capturing the essence of time within its wooden walls.
The castle’s beauty, highlighted by its nickname "the White Emperor," provides photographers with a timeless canvas where each stone and beam tells a story of endurance and grace. The castle’s strategic position overlooking the Kiso River creates a captivating contrast between historical strength and the gentle touch of nature, offering unique photographic perspectives with each season.
Thus, Inuyama Castle transcends its physicality to become a symbol of ephemeral beauty, inviting artists and observers to reflect on permanence in the face of the relentless passage of time.
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