Japan: Himeji Castle, the Grace of the White Heron
Updated: Aug 8
Himeji Castle, also known as "Hakuro-jō" or "Shirasagi-jō" (White Heron Castle), is one of the most remarkable examples of Japanese castle architecture. Its long history makes it a rare witness to the various periods from feudal Japan to the present day. It is a masterpiece of defensive and residential construction and a high-quality photographic subject.
Himeji Castle is located in Hyōgo Prefecture in the beautiful city of Himeji. It is considered the finest example of Japanese castle architecture, thanks to its sophisticated design that combines defensive functions with impressive aesthetics.
It is particularly recognized for its ingenious design, including labyrinthine corridors and defensive mechanisms that made it practically impregnable.
The structure we see today was primarily erected under the direction of Ikeda Terumasa between 1601 and 1609, after Tokugawa Ieyasu granted him the fief following the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. This battle marked the end of the Japanese civil wars and the beginning of the Tokugawa shogunate.
Today, Himeji Castle attracts photographers and visitors from around the world, fascinated by its beauty and cultural significance. In this article, I delve into the major periods of its fascinating history, its key features, and the annual events that highlight it.
A Fitting Nickname
The nickname "White Heron" (白鷺城, Shirasagi-jō) is often attributed to Himeji Castle due to its exterior appearance. The castle is coated with a white plaster that gives it a brilliant whiteness, reminiscent of the color and grace of a white heron in flight. Additionally, its slender roofs that soar towards the sky evoke the image of outstretched wings.
In Japan, the white heron is associated with grace, purity, and nobility. The image of Himeji Castle, standing majestically above the city, reinforces this association and symbolizes beauty, serene strength, and resilience against the passage of time.
This nickname reflects not only the unique architecture of the castle but also its cultural and historical significance for Japan, embodying the harmony between nature and art.
History and Evolution
Himeji Castle has witnessed several significant periods in Japanese history, marked by architectural transformations and changes in ownership. Over the centuries, the castle underwent numerous renovations and expansions, particularly under the Tokugawa shogunate, eventually achieving its current form.
The castle consists of over 80 buildings spread across several concentric defensive zones, featuring high walls and large moats. Here is an overview of its history and evolution:
Origins and Early Fortifications (1333)
1333: Akamatsu Norimura, a samurai, built the first fortification on the site, called Himeyama.
1346: The structure was expanded by Sadanori Akamatsu, transforming the fortification into a more sophisticated castle.
Sengoku Period (1581)
1581: Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a daimyo and unifier of Japan, took control of the castle. He undertook significant construction work, adding a three-story keep (which was later replaced). These additions marked the beginning of the castle's transformation into a complex residential and military structure incorporating advanced defensive elements.
Reconstruction and Expansion (1600-1609)
1600: After Tokugawa Ieyasu's victory at the Battle of Sekigahara, the castle was awarded to Ikeda Terumasa.
1601-1609: Ikeda Terumasa undertook a major reconstruction that gave the castle its current appearance. The work included:
- The construction of the main keep (Tenshu) with five stories, characterized by its brilliant white facade and glazed tile roofs.
- Reinforcement of the defenses with moats, stone walls, and a complex network of gates and corridors designed to disorient attackers.
- The addition of three concentric layers of moats and multiple watchtowers (Yagura), integrating a deep defense strategy.
Edo Period (1609-1868)
1617: Honda Tadamasa took control of the castle and continued improvement work.
During the Edo period, the fortress remained under the control of various feudal lords (daimyos), serving as an administrative and military center. Minor modifications and additions were made by successive clans that controlled the domain, mainly for the maintenance and enhancement of residential and support structures. However, during the Edo period, the main structure of the castle remained unchanged.
© O. Robert
Meiji Era (1868-1912)
1868: The Meiji Restoration marked the end of the feudal system, and the castle lost its military significance.
During the Meiji Restoration and the subsequent Meiji Era, Japan underwent significant political, social, and economic transformations. For the castle, this period marked the end of its use as an administrative and military center under the feudal system and the beginning of its preservation as a cultural monument.
With the Meiji Restoration in 1868, many Japanese castles were demolished as they were seen as symbols of the feudal era that the Meiji government sought to reform. However, Himeji Castle was relatively spared from this wave of destruction, partly due to its historical and cultural significance.
As Japan modernized and adopted new military and administrative structures, the role of castles diminished. Himeji became more of a historical and cultural site rather than a military or administrative asset.
Consequently, no major transformations were undertaken during the Meiji Era. The lack of maintenance during this period led to a gradual deterioration of certain parts of the castle.
Showa Restoration (1926-1989)
During the Showa era, the Japanese government became increasingly aware of the importance of preserving its historical buildings. Recognized as a National Treasure, the castle benefited from conservation projects aimed at protecting its wooden structures from insect damage, humidity, and age-related deterioration.
1931: Himeji Castle was designated a National Treasure.
1945: Despite the bombings of World War II, the castle remained intact.
1956-1958: A major restoration was carried out to repair time-related damage, particularly on the main keep and other buildings. This restoration was crucial to preserving the architectural features of the building.
1964: Given Japan's exposure to earthquakes, measures were taken to reinforce the castle's structure against seismic activity, especially the stone walls and foundations.
1956: The first of a series of extensive restorations aimed at preserving the castle began.
The Showa era also saw Himeji Castle become a major tourist attraction. Significant financial measures were deployed to make the site accessible and informative for visitors from around the world.
Heisei Restoration (1989-2019)
1993: UNESCO inscribed Himeji Castle on the World Heritage List, recognizing it as a masterpiece of wooden construction and an important symbol of Japan's feudal era.
2009-2015: This restoration was one of the most comprehensive in the castle's history. It involved:
- Repairing the roof of the main keep, including the replacement of glazed tiles.
- Cleaning and repairing the white exterior walls, restoring their characteristic brilliance.
- Reinforcing the foundations and wooden structures to enhance the castle's earthquake resistance.
- Restoring interior paintings and ornaments, preserving the artistic details from the Edo period.
View from the top of the main donjon. © O. Robert
Features of Himeji Castle
The architectural characteristics and the composition of the entire domain reflect the ingenuity and artistry of Japan's feudal period. Here are the main features of Himeji Castle:
1. Defensive Construction: The stone walls and foundations, watchtowers, arrow slits, and complex passageways were designed to protect the castle against invaders. The path to the main keep is intentionally complicated, with many turns and blind spots to disorient attackers.
2. Main Donjon (Tenshu): The main donjon is an impressive example of traditional Japanese architecture, with several stories that appear to be more numerous than they actually are. It is designed to serve both as a command post and a last refuge in case of an attack.
3. Secondary Towers: These complement the main donjon by providing additional space for troops and storage. The castle also has impressive structures for storing food, weapons, and other resources necessary for prolonged survival during a siege.
Himeji Castle's design demonstrates advanced defensive strategies and reflects the cultural and historical significance of the period.
4. Gates and Walls: Several fortified gates and stone walls protect access to the castle, each designed to repel attackers and slow their progress. These structures were strategically placed to maximize defense.
5. Use of Whiteness: The castle’s white facade, achieved through a special plaster, not only gives it its nickname but also plays a defensive role by reflecting sunlight, which could disorient attackers.
6. Gardens and Moats: The gardens and moats surrounding the castle were not only aesthetic elements. They also served as defensive features against attacks, significantly slowing down any approach to the inner compound while providing clear fields of vision for the defenders.
© O. Robert
Position Among Other Castles in Japan
Himeji Castle was one of the first Japanese sites to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It is an icon of Japanese culture, appearing in numerous films, TV series, books, and other works of fiction. Its image is emblematic of feudal Japan and continues to attract visitors from around the world.
As a National Treasure, Himeji shares this honor with 4 other major castles: Hikone, Matsue, Matsumoto, and Inuyama. For more information on these icons of Japanese history, you can read my dedicated articles:
Himeji is also classified as one of Japan's Three Great Castles (an unofficial title), alongside Kumamoto Castle (read my dedicated article) and Matsumoto Castle, but it is often considered the most prestigious of all.
© O. Robert
Festivals and Events
Himeji Castle is the center of several annual festivals and events that celebrate local culture and history. Here are some of the most notable:
Himeji Castle Cherry Blossom Festival (Himeji-jo Sakura Matsuri)
Period: Early April
This festival celebrates the blooming of cherry blossoms (sakura) around Himeji Castle. Visitors can enjoy picnics under the flowering trees, attend traditional performances, dances, and taiko drum demonstrations. Night illuminations highlight the beauty of the castle and the cherry blossoms.
Himeji Yukata Festival (Himeji Yukata Matsuri)
Period: Late June
One of the oldest yukata (summer kimono) festivals in Japan, dating back to 1742. Participants wear colorful yukata and take part in various activities, including parades, traditional dances like the Himeji Ondo, food stalls, and games. The festival primarily takes place around the Osakabe Shrine, located near the castle.
Himeji Castle Festival (Himeji-jo Matsuri)
Period: Early August
The Himeji Castle Festival includes a parade of samurai in armor, kendo (Japanese fencing) demonstrations, taiko drum performances, and traditional dances. Visitors can also watch historical reenactments and fireworks displays.
Grand Tea Ceremony of Himeji Castle (Himeji-jo Daichakai)
Period: October
This event celebrates the Japanese tradition of the tea ceremony. It takes place in various locations around the castle, including gardens and tea ceremony rooms. Renowned tea masters participate, offering visitors a refined and authentic cultural experience.
International Friendship Festival
Period: September
This festival aims to promote cultural exchanges between local residents and international communities. It features international food stalls, cultural performances, and workshops. Himeji Castle provides a majestic backdrop for this event.
© O. Robert
Himeji Castle Marathon
Period: February
The Himeji Castle Marathon attracts runners from around the world. The course passes through several historic sites in the city, with Himeji Castle serving as both the starting and finishing point. This sporting event also celebrates local culture, with spectators cheering on participants throughout the route.
These various festivals and events provide visitors with unique opportunities to discover and celebrate the rich history and culture surrounding Himeji Castle, while showcasing the beauty and majesty of this unique site.
Where and When to Photograph Himeji Castle
The grounds are extensive and offer multiple interesting vantage points. Naturally, on a first visit, you will access the castle from the main gate of the domain. The view is impressive. The open space from the main lawn allows for some good shots if there are no crowds of tourists. It is therefore best to visit during the off-season and, particularly, early in the morning.
The domain is open year-round. This is what I have observed during my visits. However, to access the castle's immediate grounds, you will need to adhere to the opening hours and purchase an entrance ticket. A security gate will prevent you from going further. Besides the undeniable interest in thoroughly exploring this architectural masterpiece, the most spectacular views are from outside the domain.
Strolling along the heights on the left flank of the domain offers magnificent views of the castle, enhanced by the sculpted pine trees in the foreground (see the second photo in this article). To my surprise, this spot is almost always deserted.
As night falls, you can observe the illuminated castle from the road to the east (the right side of the castle, oriented north-south). A large park and several parking areas provide spectacular views of the building, its towers, and its annexes. In fact, the first photo in this article was taken from this spot in the spring. However, be prepared to work around the tall trees in this wooded park, but the view is truly worth the effort.
© O. Robert
The Final Word
Himeji Castle, with its iconic architecture and long history, proves to be an exceptional subject for photography. In black and white, the striking contrasts between the castle's immaculate walls and dark roofs emerge with remarkable clarity, emphasizing the architectural lines and strict symmetry that embody Japanese aesthetic perfection.
Black and white photography here provides a visual depth that goes beyond mere color reproduction. It highlights the textures of traditional materials like wood and stone. The brilliant whiteness of the plastered walls evokes the purity and nobility of the white heron, while the shadows cast by the angular structures add a dramatic dimension, reflecting the successive dynamics of light and darkness that have shaped the castle’s history.
View on Himeji City from the main donjon. © O. Robert
Festivals and events around the castle, such as the Himeji-jo Sakura Matsuri and the Himeji Yukata Matsuri, also provide valuable moments for photography. In black and white, these scenes of life and celebration transform into timeless tableaux where human expressions and traditional movements are captured in their purest essence, free from chromatic distractions.
Thus, photographing Himeji Castle not only captures its architectural beauty but also immerses one in its historical and cultural depth. This approach underscores the permanence of the past within the present. It offers an artistic perspective that transcends time and trends, establishing Himeji Castle as an enduring symbol of Japanese grace and resilience.
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