Japan: Getting to Kushiro to Photograph the Tanchozuru Cranes (Part 2)
Updated: Dec 7, 2024
Japanese cranes are undoubtedly among the most represented animals in traditional Japanese painting. Any photographer who goes to Hokkaido in winter should go observe them in the village of Tsurui. It's a striking and emotionally rich spectacle. Getting to Kushiro, the only region where it is now possible to see them.
The Japanese cranes, also known as Tanchozuru in Japanese, are one of the most precious symbols of Japan's wildlife. This endemic species is primarily found on the island of Hokkaido. The Japanese crane is one of the largest birds in the world, and its image is widely used in Japanese culture for the values it symbolizes.
They can only be observed from specific locations around the city of Kushiro. Several spots have been set up at this location to accommodate tourists as well as photographers, who gather at dawn for the arrival of these majestic waders.
In a previous article, I discussed the history, characteristics, lifestyle, behavior, and cultural symbolism of these majestic cranes. I also covered the protection measures implemented by the government and local associations to ensure the sustainability of this endemic species. If you would like to learn more about these aspects and their relevance to photography, you can read the article here.
Embarking on a journey to capture the majestic Japanese cranes in Tsurui Village is an adventure that combines the thrill of travel with the art of photography. Here’s a practical article to help you reach Tsurui Village via Kushiro City, starting from Sapporo's New Chitose Airport.
Getting to Kushiro
As is always the case in Japan, there are multiple ways to reach a tourist destination. Their flawless sense of organization offers various means of transportation depending on your expectations or personal interests.
You can therefore get to Kushiro City from Sapporo Chitose Airport either by air, by train, by road, or by bus. Each method has its advantages. If the sole reason for your trip to Hokkaido is to photograph the cranes, I recommend taking a direct flight to Kushiro from Tokyo, Osaka, or any other major city in Japan. You will likely be eager to get to the location as quickly as possible.
Although, it's better to save a return trip to Sapporo by road to fully enjoy the landscapes of Hokkaido. For this reason, I always suggest booking a return ticket from Sapporo (to Tokyo or Osaka) and driving from Kushiro to Sapporo. The trip by car from Kushiro to Sapporo takes around 4 hours to cover the 300 km distance.
1. By Air
Obviously, the quickest way to reach Kushiro from Sapporo is by taking a domestic flight. Japan Airlines (JAL) and All Nippon Airways (ANA) operate several daily flights to Kushiro Airport. The flight duration is approximately 55 minutes, and ticket prices range from 15.000 to 25.000 yen ($135 to $225 USD), depending on the season and availability.
You will find a multitude of hotels in Kushiro City (see below). By taking a taxi directly from the airport, you will be certain to get to your hotel in the most direct and safest way possible. Indeed, it is not uncommon for the region to be swept by snowstorms that make visibility and travel by road quite difficult or even impossible. It is also common to see some flights canceled or delayed. Despite this, flying to Kushiro remains the most efficient means.
Moreover, walking in 20 cm of snow in the middle of a storm upon arriving in the evening with luggage is not the easiest thing. Having tested it myself, I can confirm this.
2. By Train
For those who prefer a scenic journey, taking the train is a great option. The JR Limited Express Super Ozora connects Sapporo to Kushiro. The train ride takes about 4.5 hours and costs around 9.000 yen ($80 USD). You can catch the train from Sapporo Station, which is easily accessible from the airport via the Airport Express train (37 minutes, 1.070 yen).
The train journey from Sapporo to Kushiro on the JR Limited Express Super Ozora is not just a means of transportation. It's a scenic experience that offers a variety of interesting landscapes for photographers. And it gives you a very good idea of the snowy landscapes in southern Hokkaido.
The Super Ozora train departs from Sapporo Station and travels eastward through Hokkaido, passing through several notable towns and landscapes before reaching Kushiro Station.
Here are some interesting areas you will pass through:
Iwamizawa: A city known for its agricultural landscapes and amazing rural sceneries.
Takikawa: This area is characterized by vast farmlands and rolling hills, offering a glimpse into Hokkaido’s agricultural heartland.
Furano: Although the train does not stop here, the surrounding area is famous for its lavender fields and picturesque landscapes. In winter, the snow-covered fields create a serene and beautiful scene.
Obihiro: Known as the "City of Trees and Flowers", Obihiro is a major stop on the route. The surrounding countryside is dotted with farms and pastures, providing a pastoral backdrop.
Kushiro Wetlands: As you approach Kushiro, the train passes through the expansive Kushiro Shitsugen National Park, one of Japan’s largest wetlands. This area is a haven for wildlife, including the Japanese cranes, and offers stunning views of marshlands, rivers, and forests (Read my 3rd article for more information).
Kushiro River: The train crosses the Kushiro River, providing opportunities to capture the meandering waterway and its surrounding landscapes.
3. By Car
Renting a car is the most convenient way to explore the area at your own pace. Several car rental agencies are available at Kushiro Airport. Having your own vehicle also allows you to easily access various photography spots and feeding stations around the village.
I recommend the rental company ORIX, which is present throughout the country and offers attractive rates. I only work with them for vehicle rentals now. They offer the convenient advantage of being able to return the car in a different prefecture (for a slight additional cost).
The road from Kushiro to the sanctuary and observatory located in the village of Tsurui is very easy and direct. Tsurui is the most well-known location for observing the cranes. This is where you will go daily if you have planned multiple days in the region (which I highly recommend).
The distance from Kushiro to Tsurui Village is around 35 km, taking about 45 minutes via Route 274 without any stops.
By Bus
If you prefer public transportation, you can take a bus from Kushiro Station to Tsurui Village. The Akan Bus operates several daily services to Tsurui. The journey takes a bit more than 1 hour and costs around 1.500 yen ($13.50 USD).
Although bus travel is quite affordable and Japanese buses are of high quality, I do not recommend it in Hokkaido during the winter. The weather conditions often make the roads challenging and journeys are frequently delayed. On the other hand, traveling by bus in other regions of Japan is a safe, cheap, and very interesting way to observe rural landscapes.
Hotels
When considering accommodation options for your trip to photograph the Japanese cranes, both Kushiro City and the areas closer to Tsurui Village have their advantages. Staying in Kushiro allows for more flexibility in your itinerary. You can easily explore other attractions in the region, such as Lake Akan and the Kushiro Shitsugen National Park.
Having experienced a wide range of accommodations in Japan, I recommend staying in Kushiro. Along with all the options you have for hotels, Airbnbs, apartments, or guest houses, you will have an array of choices when it comes to restaurants, cafes, or shops. This is very pleasant after a day spent in the cold without moving much.
Here are my 3 hotel recommandations in Kushiro, amongst many other:
ANA Crowne Plaza Kushiro: A high-end hotel offering comfortable rooms and excellent service.
Kushiro Royal Inn: A mid-range option with clean, well-appointed rooms and convenient location.
Kushiro Washington Hotel: A budget-friendly choice with basic amenities and a central location.
However, it is also possible to find hotels on the road from Kushiro to Tsurui. While these allow you to save some time on your morning and evening commutes, they are located in somewhat remote places. From experience, I prefer to get up early and stay in Kushiro rather than spend the night in the villages during winter.
It's up to each individual to form their own opinion on this based on their expectations. Clearly, if you are coming to Hokkaido or Japan for the first time, you might prefer a more immersive experience in local hotels or guest houses. It's a matter of personal priorities. Reducing the daily commute time also means more time spent photographing and less time spent on the road.
For those interested in staying around Tsurui Village, here are my 3 hotel recommendations:
Tsurui Onsen Ryokan: A traditional Japanese inn with hot spring baths, offering a relaxing and authentic experience.
Hotel Taito: A modern hotel with comfortable rooms and easy access to the crane sanctuaries.
Minshuku (Inn): Several local minshuku offer a homely atmosphere and personalized service, often at a more affordable price.
Both Kushiro City and the areas around Tsurui Village are generally safe for travelers. However, staying in a major city like Kushiro might offer more peace of mind, especially if you are traveling alone or prefer the convenience of urban amenities.
My library: The Ultimate Guide to Japan's Great Northern Islands | This complete guide covers all the places and experiences that foreign and Japanese visitors alike find so fascinating about Hokkaido. This includes the island's spectacular volcanic landscapes, the world's best powder skiing and some of Japan's most incredible ramen and sushi. This book provides tips on places to explore and things to do in and around the main cities of Sapporo, Otaru, Hakodate and Asahikawa.
In the next article (Part 3), you will find all the necessary information to visit the most interesting spots to satisfy your photographer's curiosity. I will also discuss the schedules during which the cranes are fed and often engage in spectacular dances that you will undoubtedly want to capture in images.
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