Japan: Daisho-in Temple, the Legacy of Kukai at the Foot of Mount Misen
Updated: 3 days ago
Daisho-in Temple, located on the island of Itsukushima (often called Miyajima), is one of the most significant Buddhist temples in the country. With a rich history dating back over a thousand years, Daisho-in is known for its spiritual significance, its historical importance, as well as its stunning views. A must-visit place for photographers.
© O. Robert
Daisho-in It lies at the base of Mount Misen, Miyajima's highest peak, and offers an important counterpoint to the island’s more widely recognized Itsukushima Shrine. The temple offers a blend of Shingon Buddhism’s meditative practices, art, and culture.
Having visited and photographed Daisho-in several times, I've always felt that this temple is in line with the 88 temples that make up the Shikoku pilgrimage (see my articles on the subject).
Naturally, Daisho-in is a temple of the Shingon school and, as such, resembles other temples of this Buddhist spiritual tradition. But beyond this, the mysticism emanating from this complex is exceptional (I've always visited it in autumn or winter). I've only noted this particularity in very few other Shingon temples, apart from those in Shikoku or Koyasan, of course. After a recent visit, I finally decided to write an article about it. Better late than never.
However, during my first visit in 2011, the atmosphere was far more peaceful than in 2024! Today, regardless of the season, crowds of tourists are preparing to climb the many steps of Daisho-in, often with complete disregard for the place. I'll spare you the comments I overheard (in French and English) about the statues in the various halls. Or the two tourist couples who happened to run into each other and held a lively conversation, laughing loudly. I wonder if they would behave the same way in a church...
Naturally, such careless attitudes do not fit with the spirit of the place and undeniably take away some of the charm of this beautiful temple. Whether believers or not (I’m not, for instance), it seems to me that the least one can do is visit these places with the respect they deserve, rather than confusing them with some kind of local folklore. In short, it needed to be said.
Now, let’s take a look at what Daisho-in temple consists of and its history.
© O. Robert
Historical Context
Daisho-in was established in 806 by the revered monk Kōbō Daishi, also known as Kūkai, the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan. After studying Esoteric Buddhism in China, Kūkai returned to Japan and established the Shingon sect, which emphasized the pursuit of enlightenment through meditative practices and rituals (read my article about Shingon Buddhism and Kukai here).
His decision to found Daisho-in on Miyajima was likely influenced by the island's longstanding religious significance. Before the rise of Buddhism, the island was already considered sacred by the followers of Shinto, Japan’s indigenous religion, who worshiped its towering Mount Misen as the abode of deities.
Kūkai used the temple as a base for meditation and training, and it became a focal point for the propagation of Shingon teachings in the region. Daisho-in thus holds a special place in the lineage of Shingon temples in Japan, rivaled in historical importance by other temples such as Mount Kōya’s Kongōbu-ji, headquarter of Shingon Buddhism. Over the centuries, it has attracted numerous prominent figures, including members of the Heian and Kamakura periods' ruling elite, who visited the temple for spiritual retreat and religious guidance.
The Imperial Family and the Military Aristocracy
Daisho-in’s influence expanded significantly during the Heian period (794-1185), when it became closely associated with the powerful Taira clan. Taira no Kiyomori, the clan leader and a significant military figure, played a pivotal role in the temple's fortunes during the 12th century. His devotion to Miyajima as a holy site led him to finance and support the development of both Itsukushima Shrine and Daisho-in, helping cement their status as dual symbols of religious and political power (read my article about Itsukushima Shrine here).
Under Kiyomori's influence, Daisho-in flourished, hosting significant Buddhist ceremonies that combined Shinto and Buddhist practices, a phenomenon known as "Shinbutsu shūgō", or the fusion of Shinto and Buddhism.
© O. Robert
This era also marked a unique intertwining of the religious, political, and cultural landscape. The temple became a destination for not just monks but also members of the samurai class, who sought spiritual wisdom in times of war and peace. Samurai leaders, including those of the Ashikaga and Mōri clans during the Kamakura (1185-1333) and Muromachi (1336-1573) periods, continued to patronize the temple, solidifying its influence in the region.
Decline and Restoration in the Modern Era
Despite its early prominence, Daisho-in saw a period of decline during the Meiji Restoration (1868-1912), when the government enforced the separation of Shinto and Buddhism, known as "Shinbutsu bunri", a policy aimed at reviving Shinto and diminishing the influence of Buddhism. This nationwide movement led to the closure or destruction of many Buddhist institutions, as well as the dismantling of Buddhist artifacts in Shinto shrines. Daisho-in was no exception, suffering from neglect and loss of resources during this tumultuous period.
© O. Robert
However, efforts to restore the temple began in earnest during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. One notable figure in the restoration was Emperor Meiji, whose visit to Miyajima in 1885 sparked renewed interest in the preservation of the island’s religious heritage. In 1952, Daisho-in was designated a Historic Site by the Japanese government, underscoring its cultural and religious importance. Since then, the temple has undergone various restoration projects, ensuring its preservation as a center for Buddhist practice and as a destination for pilgrims and tourists alike.
Architectural Features and Treasures
Daisho-in is renowned for its peaceful ambiance, intricate architectural design, and the numerous treasures it houses. The temple complex consists of multiple buildings, halls, and statues that blend seamlessly into the island's natural landscape.
1. Main Hall (Kannon-do)
The Kannon-do (Main Hall) is dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. This hall is central to the spiritual life of the temple, where visitors often pray for protection and healing. Inside the hall, there are several important statues, including a seated statue of Kannon and various representations of other Buddhist deities, reflecting the Shingon tradition's rich pantheon.
© O. Robert
2. Maniden Hall
One of the temple's most distinctive features is the Maniden Hall, a worship hall that overlooks the Seto Inland Sea. It is particularly famous for its "Daimoku", a large prayer wheel that visitors spin as they ascend the steps leading up to the hall. It is believed that turning the wheel while reciting the Lotus Sutra brings blessings and spiritual merit.
© O. Robert
3. Henjokutsu Cave
The Henjokutsu Cave is one of the most revered parts of Daisho-in. Inside the cave, visitors can find 88 statues, each representing one of the temples on the Shikoku Henro Pilgrimage route that I mentioned above. Pilgrims who visit Daisho-in and pray in this cave can earn the same spiritual merit as completing the full pilgrimage, making it a significant draw for those unable to undertake the long journey across Shikoku.
4. Statues of Fudo Myo-o
Throughout the temple complex, visitors will encounter statues of Fudo Myo-o, a fierce protective deity in Shingon Buddhism. Fudo Myo-o is often depicted with a sword in one hand, symbolizing the power to cut through ignorance, and a rope in the other, representing the ability to bind evil spirits. These statues are an iconic feature of Shingon temples and convey the sect's emphasis on overcoming obstacles to enlightenment.
© O. Robert
5. 500 Rakan Statues
One of Daisho-in's most visually striking features is its collection of 500 rakan statues, which represent the disciples of Buddha. These statues are scattered throughout the temple grounds, each with unique expressions and postures. Visitors are encouraged to find a statue that resonates with their own personality or spiritual journey (read my article about the Rakan and their significance here).
© O. Robert
Daisho-in's Role in Contemporary Times
Today, Daisho-in remains an active place of worship and a major tourist destination. Visitors from all over the world come to experience its serene atmosphere, meditate, and admire the temple’s artistry and history. The temple continues to uphold its centuries-old traditions, hosting various Buddhist ceremonies, including fire rituals called "Goma" for purification and peace.
In recent decades, Daisho-in has also become known for its international outreach, participating in interfaith dialogues and promoting peace. It frequently hosts cultural exchanges and events designed to foster understanding between different religious traditions, particularly Buddhism and Shinto, but also reaching out to global religions such as Christianity and Islam.
Daisho-in and Photography
Daisho-in, like many temples, is more than a collection of structures. It is a sanctuary of stillness, meditation, and spirituality. In monochrome photography, where color is stripped away, we find an aesthetic that parallels the simplicity and introspection of temple life. Black and white images, with their focus on form, texture, and contrast, echo the meditative austerity and timelessness of places like Daisho-in. They capture the play of light and shadow, the grain of ancient wood, the soft fall of stone steps, and the weathered faces of statues, distilling the scene to its purest essence.
© O. Robert
Monochrome photography demands a deeper respect for the subject. In the context of a temple like Daisho-in, it encourages the photographer to engage not only with the physical beauty but also with the spiritual atmosphere. The absence of color invites the observer to contemplate details that might otherwise be overlooked.
The photographer, like a pilgrim, must approach places like temples with humility, aware that they are capturing not just physical structures but also centuries of devotion, prayer, and human experience. Monochrome, with its minimalist approach, allows the essence of Daisho-in to emerge without the distraction of vibrant colors, honoring the temple's quiet dignity. Photography become an act of reverence in itself, a meditation on form and space, and a way to experience the deeper spiritual currents that run through such sacred places.
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